A new Mugler female fragrance is big news in perfume land. There have been flankers a plenty, but only three big ones since gamechanger Angel barged in and took over beauty counters in 1992: Alien, Womanity and this one: Aura.
It was in 1995 that I first tried Angel in the Harrods Perfume Hall, which seemed such a good place to try a Mugler for the first time that I did it again on Saturday. I managed to sweet talk the lovely Sales Assistant in the Harrods Perfume Hall into not one but two samples of Aura. Also, it provided brief respite from supercar spotting with my son in Knightsbridge.
Aura has two brand new ingredients that were invented to fox bloggers and perhaps to ensure a lack of imitation. When you think of how many big patchouli gourmands Angel inspired, it’s hard not to expect the same here. However, Aura is not so easy to describe.
It opens with rhubarb and orange flowers. I love rhubarb in fragrance. If you have ever smelled Jour D’Hermes or Aedes de Venustas original then you will know how fabulous it can be. It has a kind of vegetal autumnal fruitiness that is perfect alongside the other ingredients in Aura. The orange flower is to my nose, very girly and has facets of clean white soap alongside its typical white-flower headiness.
The two secret ingredients are Wolfwood from Firmenech (The flavour and fragrance brand) and Tiger Liana, which is totally going to be my stripper name if times get tough.
Tiger Liana alleges to be a smoky sugared almond note, but it’s hard to pick out a note I’m only guessing at, so in all honesty, I can’t tell you if it’s there or if my brain is putting it there . I can pick out some wonderful dry, smoky woods, but I don’t know if its Wolfwood or just dry, smoky woods. In any case, the woody notes are there alongside the big. big orange flower, which I found to one of the most prominent notes in Aura.
The strongest overall impression Aura gave me was one of huge, juicy leaves in a rainforest with added gourmand and floral facets that frame this green scent for the modern palate. Aura has a wonderful “wetness” note to it that smells as leafy as the bottle is green.
As for the vanilla bourbon, well I didn’t really notice that until the end of the day when the leafy footprints had faded and left only a rich vanilla liqueur in its place. Longevity, by the way, is excellent. I wore two sprays from morning until night.
Of all the Muglers, this is my favourite. I don’t think it will be the game changer Angel was, but I think it’s one of the most palatable of the Muglers and the turned-down volume of it will be a crowd pleaser. As for the chiselled green jewel of a bottle -it is a huge divine emerald, which, if it were real, would be unapologetically vulgar and would look great on my third finger.
My verdict? This is my favourite Mugler, but not the best. The best one is Angel, but that’s not my favourite.
Further reading: Thomas Dunckley, aka The Candy Perfume Boy, is for me, the last word on Mugler. Here’s his review of Aura, which, and I’m not just saying this, is better than mine. Please don’t enter it in the Jasmine Awards Thomas. I’d like an outside chance next year.
This launches on June 30th and will be widely available. You can currently pre order it from The Fragrance Shop UK. You should be able to find it post launch from John Lewis and Escentual to name but two. The bottle is refillable, which I totally applaud in this wasteful day and age.