Tag Archives: niche fragrances

Gallivant Brooklyn: My New Habitat

Gallivant is a new niche perfume house which was created by Nick Steward, former creative director at L’Artisan Parfumeur. You may recall my previous reviews of other Gallivant scents: Istanbul, London and Tel Aviv. I never thought that one of my favourite fragrances would be called Tel Aviv, but it is.

Today I’m reviewing Gallivant Brooklyn– a place I’ve never been (also see Istanbul and Tel Aviv for places I’ve never been). However, this bottle of uplifting feel good fragrance makes me want to move there immediately. If only!

Here’s the Gallivant description of Brooklyn (you’ll see what I mean about how appealing it sounds):

“It’s life on the sidewalk, early summer breezes, the glow from the lighting in bars and diners, bright apartments with books. Cocktails with friends”

Doesn’t it make you want to pack a case right now?  You can  hop in my cab if you like.

Photo by Michelb101 for Wiki Commons

So how do they encapsulate all this in a fragrance? Well, if you want a feel good fragrance, you need citrus and that’s how this opens. There are lemon and limes galore. In fact, this reminded me of the kind of drinks I would have a child: lemon squash and limeade from the pop van. Happy times indeed.  The citruses pretty much stick around here. I found this lemon/lime accord  is present right until the end, which is no mean feat- citrus notes are notoriously hard to pin down for any length of time.

HouseofTreats.com

In the middle there are some very gentle, clean floral notes: Magnolia in her Sunday Best and classy iris-like Orris.

I could tell you that the base note is all resin-y and woody, but I won’t, because what happened on my skin,  is that this became a lemon/lime musk and there it stayed.

Brooklyn reminds me of that intangible note in the air when life is good, your time is your own and you don’t have a mortgage yet. It reminds me of carefree evenings on my way to meet friends, when all I had to do was arrange my social life and dream some dreams.  The word I am looking for is, ironically, gallivanting.

Brooklyn is clean, happy, even slightly soapy, and is a  whimsical and rather beautiful mood elevator. Brava to Nose Giorgia Navarra.

Stockists

My samples were kindly sent to me by Gallivant, for which many thanks. No conditions were attached and this is an honest review. You can buy Gallivant from the website or from Roullier White. Watch this space for reviews of Amsterdam and Berlin.  Now Berlin, I HAVE been to.

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Aftelier Perfumes: Palimpsest

LIQ-EDP-Palimpsest-1

 Palimpsest: A manuscript or piece of writing material on which later writing has been superimposed on effaced earlier writing

Mandy Aftel is an independent perfumer based in California with a die-hard fan base, and more accolades than you can shake a stick at- and after trying several samples that she very kindly Fed-Exed to me, I can see why.

Firstly- the name:  After I’d read it a few times and stopped saying Pample-est in my head, I realised that, aside from some Yuzu, this was nothing to do with grapefruit (it’s not Pamplelune) and everything to do with layers.

A Palimpsest is “A manuscript or piece of writing material on which later writing has been superimposed on effaced earlier writing.”

(www.oxforddictionaries.com).  You can see why this is a great name for a perfume that is a cornucopia of layers and which constantly changes on my skin and which juxtaposes the old with the new.

The Archimedes Palimpsest fromThe Guardian

My preconceptions were torn asunder when I first tried Palimpsest, and I have been learning more than ever lately that it will never do to cross olfactory notes off my list of “Likes”.  I usually sidestep peach, honey and yellow flowers, but Palimpsest has all three tied together with a hint of citrussy yuzu, and most interestingly of all, an edge that smells like dried incense smoke.

Initially, there was a sourness to this, which isn’t always a bad thing, but then loud peaches took over, bedding down into richer, dried apricots enveloped in a waft of joss sticks.  Some borderline indolic Jasmine wafts by, leaving an impression but not staying long.  I wouldn’t like to break this down into top,middle and base notes  because it doesn’t stay still.

Mandy Aftel, from www.aftelier.com
Mandy Aftel, from www.aftelier.com

One overwhelming impression that it left me with, is that Palimpsest is the exact, and I mean the exact smell that you get when you stick your nose right into a fully blooming daffodil. There’s honey, yellow flowers and pollen and vanilla and that hint of natural spice in a daff that reminds you that it came from a vegetable like bulb. I don’t even know if it was deliberate or if it’s my take on it- is after all the national flower of Wales where I live, so I consider myself an aficidando of sticking noses in Daffodils.

wiki commons
wiki commons

Palimpsest is not only a superb, multi layered and interesting scent, but it is that rare thing- an all natural perfume.  Personally, I don’t mind what’s in my perfume as long as it smells good, but it is no mean feat to maintain this principal.

Mandy is remarkably successful- she was named in the top seven bespoke perfumers in the world by Forbes and Basenotes rated her in the top twenty five most influential people in perfume ( and they know what they’re talking about over there). Her very first brand, Grandiflorum was sold to Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, and she has been her own boss at Aftelier perfumes since 1997.

LIQ-MINI-Palimpsest-1

Despite her success, Mandy remains approachable and down to earth, and her passion shines through in all she does.

I would like to also point you in the direction of a blog that is so good that I treat it like textbook: Perfume Shrine.  The review of Palimpsest on PerfumeShrine is superb and tells you more than I do in fascinating detail. I’m not worthy!

Stockists

Aftelier perfumes are available from the Aftelier website. Prices vary, and samples start at $6 a phial.

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