Tag Archives: modern chypres

4160 Tuesdays: Goddess of Love and Perfume

goddess

Designed for Aphrodite, goddess of love, to seduce shepherd boys on the grassy banks of Roseberry Topping.

-Sarah McCartney

Yesterday I was the excited recipient of a box of Crimes of Passion samples from 4160 Tuesdays. This always feel like an occasion as the packaging is consistently hand done and beautiful. Each phial was wrapped in jewel coloured tissue before being wrapped in recycled hand made paper and finished with a leather bow ( The cats won’t give it back). After all that build up, my anticipation was huge.

4160 jan2016

What were the actual scents like? Well a trumpet fanfare wouldn’t have been out of place. They blew me away good and proper. I don’t get these thunderbolts very often and having now written 620 blog posts, I’d be exhausted if I did. But this was like being struck by cupid. I will write about the others in good time, but today I will attempt to do justice to Goddess of Love and Perfume.

grapefruitOpening with citruses that smell freshly squeezed, there is a bright salty tang in the top notes, with a promising warmth. There’s enough fruit here for a market stall ( Yuzu, grapefruit, raspberry, strawberries, plum, peaches), but they are blended so seamlessly it makes a new accord that is akin to a tart raspberry flavour grapefruit. If it was a drink I’d order an ice filled jug of it.

The fruit segues subtly and gradually into a warm fruity chypre and peach sorbetthe oakmoss and Myrhh (aka opoponax) give this a wonderfully retro nod in the direction of the old school chypres that have long gone. The peaches make their presence felt, but never in a soapy, tinned fruit sort of manner. Its more boozy brandied peaches that have been infused with dried fruit over Christmas. The classic chypre base of patchouli and oakmoss gives me the fix I want.

For some reason, the final stages of this long lasting beauty struck me as having a bunch of violets in it. There are none actually in this, but somehow, I found them, or they found me, along with some long lasting vintage musk. Leaving a slightly powdery finish, as a good chypre does, Goddess of Love and Perfume left me an infatuated suitor in her wake.

So, yes, I’ve been shot by cupid and I’m helpless to resist.

Stockists

You can buy Goddess of Love and Perfume from the website at 4160 Tuesdays. You can find other stockists here. I bought my samples from the site. I am reviewing the parfum strength.

Aphrodite (Venus) bares herself before Paris, with Hera and Athena standing to her left in The Judgment of Paris by Enrique Simonet, c. 1904.
“Ta-dah!”

Painting: Aphrodite (Venus) bares herself before Paris, with Hera and Athena standing to her left
in The Judgment of Paris by Enrique Simonet, c. 1904. From www.myastrologybook.com

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Bottega Veneta: Luxury Leather

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 Bottega Veneta is an Italian luxury handbag/leather company that has, like everyone else, entered the fragrance world.  Being makers of luxurious leather, it comes as no surprise that their 2011 fragrance is also a luxury leather. Described as a “leathery floral chypre”, I found it had a few notes in common with recent release Aura by Loewe (also a luxury leather company) and an enormous amount in common with the quintessential scent of quiet wealth that is Serge Lutens Daim Blond.

According to Fragrantica the notes are:

Top notes: Bergamot, Pink pepper,

Middle note: Jasmine

Base notes: Patchouli, Oakmoss and Leather

As much as I love Bergamot in just about anything, I cannot be certain that it goes with leather in this fragrance, and there is most definitely leather in Bottega Veneta EDP. This is not brash biker leather, nor weathered horsey leather as in Cuir de Russie (Mmm, so good). In fact, it is a muted leather: you could almost say suede.

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sergelutens.com

This is where the comparison to Daim Blond enters the frame.  Daim Blond is muted suede: the smell of the interior of a shop so exclusive that you need to show your stock portfolio just to walk past the window. Bottega Veneta is very similar, but without the apricots.  There’s not much in it though.  Take out the Bergamot and tone down the Jasmine and you pretty much have a doppelganger of Daim Blond. (I always think of Jasmine as a teenager who keeps turning the volume up to loud).

The Patchouli and Oakmoss in Bottega Veneta, which would be terrific if they cranked it up a bit into “Level Raspy”, are sadly, not bitey enough for my liking. If you’re going to put them on the stage, at least give them a few lines.  There was a note in this I couldn’t define.  It’s like a slightly sweet suede with a nutty flavour to it.  I searched the notes and could find nothing it could be, so maybe it’s just one of those notes that manifests itself from a hybrid of the others.

Between the two, I think Daim Blond has the edge.  Price wise, there’s not much in it.

Given the choice, I’d go for the Uncle Serge, but Bottega Veneta can certainly hold its own.