Tag Archives: Brian Pera

Tableau de Parfums: Ingrid by Andy Tauer : There is Warmth Behind the Hauteur

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This is the latest scent from the Tableau de Parfums range.: a collaboration between filmmaker Brian Pera and Perfumer Andy Tauer.  Ingrid joins previous creations Loretta (which I haven’t tried) and Miriam (which I have reviewed in this blog and which I liked very much).

It’s a new launch, only recently released, and I am lucky enough to have been able to obtain a sample from Scent and Sensibility, which for UK Tauer fans, is a very good way of sampling them without the annoying perfume posting regulations that are the bane of our lives. My sample was £4.50 for a 2ml spray. I consider this excellent value as longevity is so good.Image

Ingrid is hard to categorise.  I recently reviewed Vitriol d’œillet by Serge Lutens which is a Clove/Carnation combo.  At first I thought Ingrid was similar but I was wrong. Ingrid is earthy and reminds me of birch or tar or dried bracken. There is winter spice too, but not in a chintzy Christmas way, you’ll be relieved to know. The Rose is prevalent, and as with other Tauer scents, no Rose is the same twice.  In this case, the Rose reminds me of dried petals in a pot pourri- they have gone paper thin and their colour has faded but their scent has gone faintly peppery. Nevertheless it can still be recognised as Rose.

Image Ingrid is rich and spicy, but dry rather than sweet. It left me thinking I could smell the deep dark scent of Myrrh, but it may have been the resinous Styrax which is used so beautifully.

On my skin, the base notes of Ingrid are Clove, dried Roses, Resin and Frangipani. It’s rich, dark and mysterious yet the ingredients have been used lightly enough not to overwhelm.  It’s a winter scent that would make you stand out in the crowd for all the right reasons. It reminds me of bare wintery trees and faded petals and hot spiced brandy. It is layered and complex and beautiful. Longevity, as ever is excellent. Around ten hours. If ever a perfume was created to be worn in snow against a backdrop of stark bare branches, it was this. It injects spice into winter and warmth into frost.  It makes me think of a woman who is always immaculately dressed,  maybe a little scary, but deep down she has a heart of gold. I will always be friends with Ingrid and Miriam.

EDIT: Scent and Sensibility has now sadly closed.

 

 

Tableau de Parfums Miriam: I Think I Know Your Cousin

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I have a hotch potch of similar looking sample tubes and tried a new one yesterday without looking too closely at the label. What I ended up smelling was, I initially thought, Noontide Petals by Andy Tauer, but in fact turned out to be Miriam by Tableau de Parfums.

A few minuets of googling explained why I had been thinking of Noontide Petals. Miriam was Imagecreated by non other than our old friend Andy Tauer and his trademarks are all over it.

Tableau de Parfums is a collaboration between  a filmmaker, (Brian Pera), and a perfumer, (Andy Tauer). With each of the three perfumes in the range comes a DVD and a novella.

Personally, I’m not sure I like the idea, since to me, the fun of perfume is where it takes you in your mind and memory, and this should never be prescriptive. I like to smell a scent, and see where I go. It’s often a different journey and can jog long forgotten memories more effectively than any photograph.  However, in this case, the perfume itself is fabulous and has many hallmarks of a Tauer, a brand I regard very highly.

With more Chypre qualities than Noontide Petals, and more Violets, Roses and Ylang,  Miriam is indeed closely related to Noontide Petals but holds her own. Miriam has a wonderful vintage feel,  as does the bottle, and this was, unsurprisingly Tauer’s plan. In fact there are old fashioned notes in Miriam that make me think of a well used, beautifully polished antique dressing table with a fine layer of face powder and talc and some rosewater spilled onto the wood. There’s a hint of nail varnish, and a general impression of a messy boudoir, with shoes in the floor, and earrings by the side of the bed. However , this is very ladylike, and no messy Worth Courtesan.  Miriam keeps her cool with Citrus notes and Lavender, making this wonderful for summer, yet sophisticated enough for dinner at dusk. You can smell the individual ingredients, as if it was made with basic old fashioned methods, rather than today’s overprocessed factory synthetics.

The basenotes go a bit spicy and woody with Amber and Sandalwood  providing a softer background for the bright, chic opening. It ends dry and dusty, but still pretty with plenty of femininity left in the faded flowers.

Frankly, it’s gorgeous and I would be more than happy with a full of bottle of  ladylike, Miriam and her face powder and her nail polish. This is where it took me.  I wonder where it will take you? No two journeys are the same.

PS Does anyone else think Miriam looks like a cross between Anjelica Huston and Carla Bruni?