Tag Archives: Andy Tauer l’Air du desert Marocain

Andy Tauer No 11: Carillon Pour Un Ange

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Created by Andy Tauer in homage to his favourite flower Lily of the Valley,  (allegedly one of the reasons why he became a perfumer), Carillon Pour Un Ange immediately took me back to my past.

I couldn’t figure it out, although as the day wore on, the penny dropped.  It never ceases to amaze me how perfume can take me back to a day or a moment in my past that I had thought I had forgotten. It’s like a time machine.

As I smelt the divine muguets in Carillon Pour Un Ange, I was taken back to a sunny day in my late grandmother’s garden. We were very close and I treasure every moment I had with her. Around the base of her rose garden was a carpet of Lily of The Valley. I asked her what it was and she told me, and invited me to pick some to smell. The result was heavenly and heady.  All the best smells can be found in nature and I had almost forgotten that warm day when we were just standing around in her garden on our own.

Cicley Mary Barker Flower Fairies
Cicley Mary Barker Flower Fairies

Lily of the Valley doesn’t just grow for anyone. It is said that it is either very hard to grow or very easy, if you have the magic touch. There is no middle ground. This pretty sprig of white buds against its green background always says Spring to me, and it never fails to stop me in my tracks. As Andy himself says of Carillon Pour Un Ange “it is a green choir of flowers”

The burst of flora in the initial notes is clean and pure and natural. It does not smell synthetic. The Lilacs come through too, and the overall impression is of a dewy moistness. This is almost thirst quenching. The Rose is present too, but does not dominate in the Turkish Delight sort of way that it so often does. This almost borderline spicy Lily of The Valley scent is addictive.

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But it doesn’t stop there. Just a moment ago I was looking around the room for a Vetiver or Oud type smell until I realised it was on my arm. And it was not Vetiver or Oud, but Ambergris and Wood.  The Lily of The valley is still there though, and despite the more masculine base notes, the scent retains it delicacy and fragility. I tell you, it’s seriously clever.

Although Tauer scents are regarded as niche, and thus price tags are not in the everyday category, I cannot help but think that  a Tauer is excellent value. Like the gorgeous L’Air Du Desert Marocain, lasting power is nearly twelve hours. A lot of far cheaper fragrances have nothing like this sort of longevity. He also sells sample sets, which are perfect if you cannot buy in person but don’t want to buy blind.

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Whilst I am a fierce advocate of not smashing your piggy bank to smell good, I would also say that if you were going to invest in a full bottle of anything, an Andy Tauer scent would outlast all contenders.

My grandmother has not been with us these last ten years, but  were she here today she would have adored this.  And I would have got it for her.

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Andy Tauer L’Air Du Desert Marocain: At Last We Meet

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I’ve seen perfumistas on many a board sing the praises of L’Air du Desert Marocain. I was curious to try a sample, but not curious enough to buy a full bottle. I remember all too well my eager foray into the equally revered Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens, only to dislike it quite violently.

 L’Air du Desert Marocain was quite the opposite, however. I’ve heard a lot about it. I’ve seen it around (in my friend’s scent stash at least) , and finally, today my wrist met the spray. It’s no coincidence that the immediate adjectives that come to mind are ecclesiastical: Divine and Heavenly were the first words that entered my head. This is a close relative to my beloved Comme Des Garcons Series 3 Incense:Avignon, the ultimate scent of Catholicism, with authentic guilt inducing price tag.

What Tauer has produced however, is less linear that CDG Avignon and more complex.  L’Air Du Desert Marocain has several layers and even after a first spray , has a lovely faded grandeur about it. It smells like a background smell. It’s not harsh or loud. If you met me right now you would ask me how Evensong went ( I would be infused with the smoke of incense), but probably not think I was wearing a scent at all.

Top notes are Caraway, Coriander and Petitgrain, but I must confess, all I get is incense and a whiff of hay. Middle notes include Rosehip and Jasmine, but I get no flowers at all. Base notes include Vetiver, which  is used beautifully and sparingly to add a grassy leather note, as well as Amber, which is also warmly noticeable, and Cedar, which I don’t detect at all.

This is the perfect Christmas Eve scent, and therefore totally out of step with today’s sunny weather. However, I am going out this evening, so all bets are off and I’ll wear what I like. And what I like is this. If there’s any left on my skin on Sunday, then even better. It smells like Sunday morning anyway.

Like CDG Avignon, this is playing hard to get in the UK, although samples and full bottles are available online from UK suppliers Les Senteurs.  I adore the smell of church incense, and I adore this. It would smell incredible on a man too, but if I did manage to get hold of a bottle, I can’t see me sharing it.

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