Tag Archives: 1970s perfumes

Dana Raffinée: A Touch of Brass

Raffinee Perfume Dana Raffinée used to be Houbigant Raffinée and sadly I cannot list the differences between the Dana formulation and the Houbigant formulation as I don’t have the old one to compare it to.  However, if you’re a fan of Caron Montaigne (rumoured to be endangered) then you may like this rather similar and classic fragrance.   raffinee-perfume-by-dana-for-women-personal-fragrances_24801_500

First impressions of Raffinée are yellow flowers and powder.  This is probably why it reminded me so much of Caron Montaigne- those were my first impressions of Montaigne too.  However if you take away the oranges from Montaigne you are left with pretty much a decent dead ringer in Raffinée.  The problem is, it looks like Raffinee’s days are numbered too.  In this case, the emergency drill would be to buy the cheapest, which is currently Caron Montaigne , being sold for a song right now over on Amazon.

Raffinée opens with mimosa and spices.  There is a hint of hyacinth in there too, lots of dry rooty orris root and some noticeably rich tuberose. The flowers are not soft nor delicate nor dainty.  There’s no peony here.  The flowers are more blousy and loud and wearing too much make up and trying to look young.

The middle notes are a raft of soapy, powdery spices and this phase seems to last a long time.  The base notes segue into a rather brassy evening scent that smacks of the late 1970s.  There’s no subtlety here.  There’s no delicacy.  But I tell you what Raffinée does remind me of, and that’s a Beryl Cook painting, leopard print, cleavage and a dirty laugh.

It’s not fashionable, but who wants fashionable?  Powdery, soapy, spicy and rocking a tarty, 70s vibe- if Raffinée was a person we’d be going out on the town tonight.

PS Thank you to my dear friend Lisa Wordbird for the loan of the bottle.  She is not rocking a tarty 70s vibe in case you were wondering.

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artbrokerage.com

 

Tweed-It’s Golden Oldie Time: Bear With Me.

tweed (1)

I have very happy memories of scents in the 70s. It was the decade I went from nought to ten and grown up ladies were the blueprint of what I was to be become one day.

tweed old1I am not the only forty something who remembers their mothers, aunts and grandmothers dousing themselves in Tweed. Everyone remembers it, but nobody owns it. Except my friend Lisa who, as you know, is canny when it comes to perfume.

Based on her interest, and having been initiated into the Chypre portal via dreamy Balmain de Balmain and  Jolie Madame,  I allowed a small bottle to land by the till of my local chemist and fall into my bag in exchange for money. Oops!

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vintageadbrowser.com

Opening notes are clearly and loudly Lavender and Geranium.  It reminds me of Tauer’s Le Maroc Pour Elle: only because of the lavender opening, after that they part ways.

The Geranium keeps it prickly and it reminds me of Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass  for the first hour. I don’t actually enjoy the first hour of Tweed, but it gets better, trust me.

In the middle phase, the Lavender stays loud and the Cinnamon adds spice.  There’s noisy Jasmine- loud and proud, but the synthetic Lavender jars a little.  There is a disquieting hint of disinfectant.

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The base notes provide the bit worth waiting for.  Oakmoss, Vetiver, Patchouli and Benzoin. It’s a Woody, Mossy finish that lingers long beyond what anyone would expect for £4.99 from a little independent chemist.  For those of you who don’t live round the corner from me, you can buy this from Amazon or Allbeauty.com. It’s less than ten quid and worth it just for that amazing base note and the great longevity.

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