Aftelier Patchouli Noir by Mandy Aftel: A  Mènage a Trois full of ooh la la!

Mandy Aftel, of Aftelier (she is sole founder and perfumer), almost needs no introduction if you are familiar with the world of natural perfumery. I had the pleasure of visiting her hidden gem , The Aftel Archive of Curious Scents, in Berkeley California back in 2018. I was able to see behind the scenes, visit the much photographed perfume organ, smell jars of precious “concrete” (unused oud concrete looks like ear wax and smells like whiskey), and was given free rein over a drawer full of samples.  It is a small business, run from the family home, and Mandy and her family were welcoming hosts. Fast forward to 2025, and Mandy has sent me samples of her latest fragrance Patchouli Noir, in three formats: solid perfume,  eau de parfum and  perfume. Each one smells different and yet has the same DNA.

Patchouli Noir is patchouli and so much more. A long and mindful sniff will bring the individual facets alive. This is a mosaic of naturals that comes together when you close your eyes and inhale deeply, letting it fuse and settle until every note is exactly where it should be.

The patchouli rules, of course, with its musky, woody, almost oiliness, such is its richness. You may also find pine tar, blood orange and a whisper of ylang, which to my nose always smells like a banana flower. The deep concentration of ingredients really lets each aspect shine. The rarest of essences makes this stand alone from other patchoulis; Mandy has used an antique patchouli essence, only possible to recreate if you have a time machine. When this is seamlessly blended with modern day patchouli essence, a sip of boozy cognac, tomato leaf and coumarin (think woody hay bales), then you truly have a remarkable masterclass in patchouli, a celebration of nature’s idiosyncrasies, beautiful imperfections and all. Mandy Aftel has that magic touch of alchemy in every fingertip.

Patchouli Noir solid perfume

Let’s start with the solid perfume. Made with natural ingredients, the fragrance is solid thanks to the use of jojoba wax. It melts invisibly onto skin, and we all know that moisturised skin holds fragrance longer than dry skin.  A smudge is enough, but if you want to really go up a few gears, a smudge at wrist, neck and collar bone will make a statement shrouded in earthy mystery.

Patchouli Noir eau de parfum

The eau de parfum is up next. This sprays onto your skin and has the immediacy of a fragrance that is bright, golden and bold. It settles, rather than fades,  and the woodiness and pine tar are doing their greatest work. To me, this smells like the colour of whiskey, with its gleaming ambery depths.

Patchouli Noir perfume

The perfume is the strongest concentration. I find this as bold as the other two, but there is more smoke and smoulder to it. Some may mistake the opening for oud or incense, but within minutes, you are transported to an undisturbed forest, damp leaves underfoot and tall green pines, tinged with moss and mint and the distant indoor luxury of a warming auburn cognac.

My only critique is that other patchoulis won’t smell the same to me after this. Patchouli Noir sounds simple: a heady riff on an ancient ingredient, but Mandy Aftel has a forensic attention to detail. Once you experience it, you will believe that patchouli is a shape shifter, a jinn, a sorcerer’s plant with many faces and many facets, and nobody leads it blinking into the light, quite like Mandy Aftel.

Where to buy it

You can order this from the Aftelier website, and yes they do ship to the UK. For information, all Aftelier fragrances are free from synthetics, parabens, glycols, and petrochemicals

Disclosure

I was kindly sent samples of all three version by Mandy herself, for which, many thanks. My opinion of it, and my decision ot review it, are both my own.