At the beginning of this colourful scent journey that I am undergoing, I couldn’t bear either powdery scents, or anything with Iris. How things have changed. If you could see my dressing table now you would see a couple of good Iris scents and a whole colony of chypres. Never say never.
With Iris I was turned off by trying both Frederic Malle Iris Poudre by Pierre Bourdon and Parfum Maitre et Garnier Fleur D’Iris. To me, both were grey and smothering and “rooty”. However, when I tried Iris that incorporated citrus, it was a revelation. I am now a big fan of Miller Harris Terre D’Iris and the proud owner of a 50ml EDP of Prada Infusion D’Iris.
Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile showcases Iris in the way I like best: surrounded by Mediterranean oranges and lemons. Trust our Italian cousins to get it so.. well Mediterranean.
The Iris in Iris Nobile still smells like grey velvet to me, but the Orange, Bergamot and Orange Flower make it more floral and pretty. This is an Iris that can be worn by non Iris lovers. Whilst the Iris is centre stage, there is enough going on in the background to make it an all rounder. There is a hint of Anise, which I often get from Iris, and the Cedar and Amber in the base provide welcome warmth.
I wore this all day yesterday and kept getting whiffs of it throughout the day. I am surprised there isn’t Musk in this, because the finish is like a faint White Musk cloud as the petals of the flower finally dry up and lose their bloom.
All these different notes might make it sound messy, but it is blended so seamlessly, it’s like listening to a symphony. The violins didn’t suddenly start, they were always there already.
Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile was created in 2004 by legendary Noses Francis Kurkdjian and Francoise Caron. You can tell it was made by the best in the business. If you find Iris your Bête Noire, go in through the back door via the Orange Grove and you might be pleasantly surprised.