This is my second time of trying Serge Lutens Mandarine Mandarin. The first time smelled like orange crème brulee, which as much as I would to try that, I feel sure that I don’t wish to smell of it.
The second time, I like this a little more, but there is a note like dried Pot Pourri that just stops me short of loving it. Maybe it’s the tea?
Suddenly the fragrance comes back to me. As a child, I would place the peel on a hot burner of the stove, rendering a scent I’ll never forget- Serge Lutens
First off, I love oranges in scent. I love Jesus del Pozo Ambar, LUSH Karma, Biotherm Eau Vitaminee, and Ô de Lancome to name but four. In Mandarine Mandarin the orange is used differently, like a resonant background that gets deeper and darker like a rich spice. There’s no more creamy, burnt note like there was the first time round. This smells like herbal tea, infused with all the parts of an orange that dear Christopher Sheldrake could get his hands on. There is also a smell like marmalade that has been reduced to gloop on the stove. It’s not an immediate fondness, but it grows.
The notes are Tonka Bean, Orange, Mandarin, Nutmeg, Tea, Labdanum and Amber. I haven’t listed them in order as they don’t really emerge in order. Oranges and Tea come though first, followed by Amber and Nutmeg, and then it kind of settles into a cross between the above mentioned pot pourri and Oranges being steeped in dark tea.
Longevity is as good as ever with Serge Lutens and the quality of ingredients is excellent. It’s not for me, but it might be for you, if you like what you hear. Oh and it’s very Christmassy! I wouldn’t wear this, but it would be unbeatable as a room scent at this time of year.