I’m amazingly lucky to have been able to try Iris Poudre. It doesn’t exactly fill the shelves at my local branch of Superdrug. Thank you LisaWordbird and your sample collection that would make a grown perfumista weep with joy (she has a phial of vintage Schiaperelli Shocking. Oh boy!).
For the Editions de Parfums range Frederic Malle used many of the greatest Noses in the world to produce their own scents under the Frederic Malle umbrella, giving them complete creative freedom.
Iris Poudre is in no way a bad scent. It is well made, by expert Nose Pierre Bourdon, who I can now spot a mile off. If there is a scent that repels me or disturbs me, you can bet that it’s a Bourdon. But that’s just me. Worth Courtesan had a similar effect. A growing sense of unwashed underwear bloomed on my skin when I wore it. Who made it? Yep. M. Bourdon. Serge LutensFeminite du Bois with its beautiful opening of smoky Woods turned to knickers on my skin. Who made it? Yep. You’ve gusset correctly, sorry guessed correctly, it was my old friend Pierre.
Iris Poudre was the start of my realisation that when it comes to perfume, Monsieur Bourdon is my frenemy. That is to say, he is a great name in his field and his work is to be admired, but he and I are just a NO GO.
Iris Poudre had a profound effect on me. It was a vehement dislike that induced vivid visuals in my mind. A stuffy car, some kind of threatening menacing female presence (Cruella de Vil?). An inability to find fresh air. Someone open the window. I need to breathe!
It is as, the name suggests, a strong Iris that dominates. The Iris has been muffled , like a blanket over the face. Notes include: Iris, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Musk, Vetiver and Sandalwood.
The Musk does give it a femininity and softness, although to me it still feels like being suffocated. The Iris is in its Sunday best, having had a good wash. There is no carroty soil smell here. All is dry and powdery and there is no relief. In keeping with the Perfume Law of Sod, since I dislike this, it lasts nearly fifteen hours. I had to scrub it off and it was still there, getting on my nerves like a drunken bore at Christmas. If I had liked it, it probably would have faded pretty quickly. That is the Perfume Law of Sod.
Iris Poudre costs megabucks, which is a good thing if it stops people wearing it around me. However, if you like it and cannot find it or afford it, try the much cheaper Gianfranco Ferre: Ferre for Women. It is the spitting image of Iris Poudre ( Myself and 60 Fragrantica users agree). Guess who made it? Yep, Pierre Bourdon. Try not to confuse it with Gianfranco Ferre Essence D’Eau which is a bright honey like yellow flowers scent.
My views are purely subjective of course, you may well love Iris Poudre, especially if you are a fan of Iris. However I always think smelling a scent you hate is never a waste of time as it helps you establish what you love.