Aura by Loewe: The Tide is Turning


We all know how celebrated the French perfume industry is, but let’s hear some good words about the lesser lauded Spanish perfume industry. As I may have mentioned, I am a big fan of  Jesus del Pozo Ambar (top of my Christmas Wish List as my small bottle is nearly empty), and of course, there’s Balenciaga, Paco Rabanne and even Dana, a Spanish born company that has taken over many drugstore classics such as Tabu, Chantilly and Le Jardin.  Loewe is a Spanish company that is famous for its luxe luggage and bags and has branched out, as have the world and his dog, into the fragrance world.


The first time I tried a Loewe fragrance , it was from a previous Fragrance Shop Discovery Club Box and it was called Quizas Quizas Quizas Pasion.  I believe I also called it “Death by Red Berries”. Aura is a great improvement, although the leftover red berries sadly didn’t go to waste.  Aura is, refreshingly, a mainstream High Street leather.  Can we call it a chypre? I think we can. I sometimes get muddled by the definition of a chypre, but the excellent Perfume Shrine blog has, what is to my mind, the definitive article on Chypres.  

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Aura is simply made. Top notes: Red Berries, Bergamot and Pink Pepper. Middle notes: Rose, Violet Leaf, Iris and Jasmine and Base notes : Cedar, Leather and Sandalwood.  It’s an unusual journey. Initially I was on the brink of dismissal when I caught a waft of red berries again, but as I persevered, I realised that the basenotes were as good as their word and what I am left with after a an hour is a Leather, Rose, Sandalwood mélange which is really rather good.

Longevity could be better: on me it fades after two hours, but that’s not to say it won’t last longer on you.  You may recall that Delices de Cartier evaporated immediately on my skin, yet others praise its twelve hour longevity on them.   If I were Queen of The World (and it’s just a matter of time), I would order Loewe to stop using the red berries, and crank up the Leather. But that’s just me.

It’s not a chypre in the same class as, say, my beloved Jolie Madame, nor is it a leather in the same league as Cuir de Russie or Bulgari Black. However, I am so thrilled to meet a new launch that doesn’t smell like a candy shop, that I feel it would be churlish to criticise.  When you finally coax something out the woodwork, you don’t want to scare it back off again.

Aura by Loewe is available from the Fragrance Shop for £53.50 for a 40ml EDP with body lotion.  Not to be confused with Aura by Swarowski.

3 thoughts on “Aura by Loewe: The Tide is Turning”

  1. Now it’s autumn I am getting the leathers out again and loving them. Yesterday I wore Bottega Venetta and ooooh it was nice. I’m glad leather is coming back into the mainstream, because I heartily agree with you that floribundances, sweet vanilla cakes with candyfloss on and fruit salads are just not appealing. And we cannot be alone! I remember in my pre-perfumista years being so gutted with what was available on the perfume counters that I just stuck to whatever I was lucky enough to get for Christmas.

    Mind you, I still think Bulgari Black and Lancome Cuir beat the pants off anything.

    1. Indeed, I too have come over all manly and butch scent wise as they days grow chilly. Summer is all petals and lightness, but you can really go to town in Autumn. Suddenly Arpege smells about right for any occasion, but could be de trop on a hot day. Each day I alter my BFB Wish List in time for Christmas (Big Full Bottle). At the moment its Jesus del Pozo Ambar or Feuilles de Tabac.

      I agree with you about the candy floss situation. It’s gone on too long. Maybe we can cautiously approach perfume counters again?

  2. Oh – Arpege! That was my first proper grown-up perfume, and I had a bottle for my 18th birthday in 1976. You can’t imagine how damn sophisticated I felt wearing it, especially accompanied by jewel-coloured Turkish Sobranie cigarettes with gold filter tips!
    Twenty or so years later, I was working for a company exhibiting at the Country Living Show in Islington, and Lanvin had a stand opposite ours, and they were relaunching Arpege. I couldn’t wait to get over there and squirt some on, to re-live the heady days of my late teenage years. Imagine my disappointment when it was perfectly pleasant, but NOT THE SAME.
    I said this to the sales lady, and she patronisingly suggested that ‘as we get older, our sense of smell deteriorates’ and she swore blind that the formula for Arpege was unchanged, and it was my smelling ability that was at fault. I was sure she was wrong, but didn’t feel able to argue.
    It was only more recently, after reading Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez’s wonderful book on perfume that I realised I had almost certainly been correct in my assessment. There was NOTHING wrong with my sense of smell – the formula had been played around with.
    I understand there are many reasons for perfume manufacturers to change their recipes, and if they’re honest about it, I can accept it. What is really annoying is the dishonesty and contempt for their customers that leads them to think they can make changes and then deny it, and think we won’t notice or care.

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