We all know how celebrated the French perfume industry is, but let’s hear some good words about the lesser lauded Spanish perfume industry. As I may have mentioned, I am a big fan of Jesus del Pozo Ambar (top of my Christmas Wish List as my small bottle is nearly empty), and of course, there’s Balenciaga, Paco Rabanne and even Dana, a Spanish born company that has taken over many drugstore classics such as Tabu, Chantilly and Le Jardin. Loewe is a Spanish company that is famous for its luxe luggage and bags and has branched out, as have the world and his dog, into the fragrance world.
The first time I tried a Loewe fragrance , it was from a previous Fragrance Shop Discovery Club Box and it was called Quizas Quizas Quizas Pasion. I believe I also called it “Death by Red Berries”. Aura is a great improvement, although the leftover red berries sadly didn’t go to waste. Aura is, refreshingly, a mainstream High Street leather. Can we call it a chypre? I think we can. I sometimes get muddled by the definition of a chypre, but the excellent Perfume Shrine blog has, what is to my mind, the definitive article on Chypres.
Aura is simply made. Top notes: Red Berries, Bergamot and Pink Pepper. Middle notes: Rose, Violet Leaf, Iris and Jasmine and Base notes : Cedar, Leather and Sandalwood. It’s an unusual journey. Initially I was on the brink of dismissal when I caught a waft of red berries again, but as I persevered, I realised that the basenotes were as good as their word and what I am left with after a an hour is a Leather, Rose, Sandalwood mélange which is really rather good.
Longevity could be better: on me it fades after two hours, but that’s not to say it won’t last longer on you. You may recall that Delices de Cartier evaporated immediately on my skin, yet others praise its twelve hour longevity on them. If I were Queen of The World (and it’s just a matter of time), I would order Loewe to stop using the red berries, and crank up the Leather. But that’s just me.
It’s not a chypre in the same class as, say, my beloved Jolie Madame, nor is it a leather in the same league as Cuir de Russie or Bulgari Black. However, I am so thrilled to meet a new launch that doesn’t smell like a candy shop, that I feel it would be churlish to criticise. When you finally coax something out the woodwork, you don’t want to scare it back off again.