Not only have I happened upon a fragrance I love, but also a Nose I love, by the name of Francis Kurkdjian. Francis, who is my new poster boy for fabulous fragrance, is responsible for Aqua di Parma Iris Nobile, Emmanual Ungaro Apparition, J del Pozo in White, two Guerlains, two Diors, pretty much ALL of Jean Paul Gaultier, two Van Cleef and Arpels, two Demeters, two for Juliette Has A Gun, and he also has his own Perfume House called Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
From the first application (my mini bottle has no spray), the top notes are Magnolia, Lily of the Valley and something else…almost a bit Aldehyde. In any case, it’s sharp before the drydown. These flowers are not wishy washy florals. The musk and patchouli kick in during the drydown and what you have left after about an hour is an extremely feminine floral musk. Think Magnolias and Musk with a hint of raspy Patchouli – just enough to stop it being too flowershop.
It’s as feminine as high heels, red lipstick and a string of pearls. It’s ladylike and classic. There’s not a whiff of fruit or vanilla to make it mainstream, and hooray for that. If anything there is a whisper of nail polish about it, but that may be just my interpretation. It’s a floral with character. A rose with bite. And I think it’s just gone into my top ten Hall of Fame.
If Francis Kurkdjian and Jean Claude Ellena had a fight, I wouldn’t know whose name to scream.