Tag Archives: tuberose

Gucci Gucci Bloom by Alberto Morillas: A Floribundance

Harrods

Today, when out and about and at large,  I tried Gucci Bloom.  Reader, I may well be back on speaking terms with Gucci again.  You may recall that we’ve been to marriage counselling because I couldn’t forgive them for ending my beloved Gucci Envy, but  our Italian friends may be creeping back onto my Christmas Card list after this little treasure.

I do love a good blast of tuberose. The bigger the better, as far as I’m concerned, so Gucci Bloom was right up my street.  I had no expectations and  I had read no reviews.  I’m going through a bit of floral phase lately so thought I’d give myself a good soaking with the tester en passant..

My first impression was that I had stumbled across a cheaper version of my beloved Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad, which I fell in love with in London last July.  Both fragrances are rich, thick, creamy tuberose with that green soapiness that I adore.  Both scents dance around the periphery of celery territory- which tuberose can sometimes topple into, but both hold back and keep their waxen petals and lily like stalks intact.

Funnily enough, the nose behind Gucci Bloom is Alberto Morillas, who incidentally also made  the flanker By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Extreme .  He certainly knows how to handle his tuberose.

Alongside my beloved there is also jasmine sambac, which has had short shrift from me lately having been every-bleedin-where , but which nestles in snugly among its own kind in this white flower fest.  Really, jasmine sambac is so much nicer when not paired with pears, patch and vanilla. It has featured far too often in this year’s Eau de Generic.

Also present in Gucci Bloom is orris root and honeysuckle.  I didn’t think there was orris root in it at all until I noticed that everyone I walked past today smelled vaguely of iris and I realised it must be me, my coat, my wrist, my neck and I.  The honeysuckle is pretty and light and made me think of butterflies. It feels like exactly the right note to use alongside all this ladylike headiness.

All in all, I adored Gucci Bloom and want to pour a bottle over my head so I smell of it forever.  I still miss Gucci Envy, but this is a pretty decent apology.

Over to you

How about you? Have you tried Gucci Bloom? Do you like tuberose as a note in fragrance? Do let me know.  I always love to hear from you.

Stockists

You can buy Gucci Bloom from The Fragrance Shop, Harrods or Escentual.

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Marina Barcenilla India: Better than Heaven or Arcadia

MB-Parfums-India-2

Better than Heaven or Arcadia

I love thee, O my India!

Marina Barcenilla recently sent me  several of her perfume samples, which I will review in a future post.  However, one stood out so much that I was itching to review it.

Marina Barcenilla was born in Spain and is now based in Glastonbury. The Marina Barcenilla perfume house evolved from her small start-up business which originally made body products such as salts and scrubs.  Customer demand led her to where she is now: a perfumer, and a talented one at that.  I’m jolly glad she went down this path because when MB Parfums India landed on my mat recently, it was love at first sniff.

mb perfume bottles

Incredibly,  Marina manages to produce this beautiful earthy scent using only natural ingredients. Personally, I have no beef with non-natural ingredients, being composed of C02 and H20 myself, but it really takes some guts and innovation to achieve glorious fragrances with the limitations that can come with such a restriction.  It doesn’t seem to restrict Marina though.  Her imagination and flair has produced some stunning and Award winning results (India won a FiFi Award in 2016).

perfume workshops

India opens with orange flower, Indian Jasmine, tuberose and roses. It’s a rich and heady floral opening, but there’s nothing  light about this.  The heady weight of this stunning opening accord is narcotic in its depth.  It gradually segues into wood and spice that smells both earthy and authentic.   The spice is like tarry resin, yet as the richness dies down, the sandalwood and cardoman emerge in a beautiful accord of aged, incense-infused wood.  Think church pews but still with some bark left on.

India reminded me of both Comme Des Garcons Avignon and Andy Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain.  It is not exactly like either, however, since  it has a distinction all of its own.  If you like either of those two, however, you will adore India.

mb perfumes all in a row

Longevity is excellent and it just seems to get better the longer I wear it.  India is deep, resonant and evocative.  The base is longlasting and on my skin, at least, it combines woods, jasmine, roses and spice for many hours after I sprayed it.  The ingredients are distinct and vivid.  Reader, it was love.  Real, true love.

Stockists

Marina Barcenilla perfumes can be ordered from the website here. There is an excellent sample service and you can also find other ancillary fragrance products such as candles and  body oils ( I have a rose one which is beautiful). Marina herself kindly furnished me with my samples, for which, my warm thanks. Opinions are my own.

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Vero Profumo Rubj Voile D’Extrait

rubj

There’s a bit of a back story here. A few years ago, dear Lisa Jones, my friend, mentor and bad girl enabler let me try some Vero Profumo Rubj EDP that she had. My dear friends, I’m sorry to say that I did not care for it. I haven’t tried it since and my only lingering memory of it was cumin with muscles.

sample of rubjSo, in the random and serendipitous way that such things happen, I was recently offered a batch of “Naughty and Animalic” samples from dear friend of the blog Lânáis-Bambi, for which many thanks my friend. The scent bundle was one of the sample collections that you can buy from Bloom Perfumery in London, so I knew it would be good stuff.

I went straight for Rubj, thinking I knew what my reaction would be, but I was wrong.

Vero Profumo Rubj Voile D’extrait is a beautiful deep floral that I was convinced was as full of violets as Guerlain Insolence.  But it’s not.  In fact, the flowers, once they settle, are a classy bouquet of tuberose, jasmine and neroli. They don’t come in straight away though, there’s mandarina and bergamot giving this a much lighter entrance than the one I was expecting.

The base notes anchor the flowers with oak moss and musk, givingtuber this a ladylike and classic feel that I wasn’t expecting. Oh, and the cumin? Well, it’s not there, but  the cedar gives this a herby, woody nuance that takes a back seat and lets the flowers take centre stage. Its presence gives this a touch of supportive sobriety as the flowers get loud.

I loved this so much that I have taken a lesson from it; don’t write off a different formulation of a scent you didn’t take to. I could drench myself in this stuff and It wouldn’t be too much. It’s glorious and feminine and makes me feel like I am too. I’m so glad that serendipity led me back to it.

Stockists

You can buy Vero Profumo Rubj Voile D’Extrait from Bloom Perfumery. Check out the Bloom sample service too.

Acknowledgments

Thank you to Lânáis-Bambi for the beautiful set of samples.

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Happy New Year from IScentYouADay! Plus What’s New in 2017

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Many tiny snowflakes make an avalanche.

2016 was a terrible year in many ways. It made my heart feel heavy. There was a marked increase in hate and prejudice, a colossal amount of celebrity deaths and the world in general seemed a darker place. Like many, I feel a need to accentuate the positive. I have been counting my blessings and feeling determined to put kindness back out into the world. Prozac and affirmations help too.

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One of the things I am particularly thankful for is the fact that I have made several dear friends via my blog. I truly treasure them. It has always lifted my spirits to read your comments and share your scent stories.lizsam

The kindness and generosity of perfume loving people ( fumeheads? Perfumistas?) is legend. They would give you the shirt off their backs and their last drop of anything you “quite fancy trying.”  Back in October, I was lucky enough to meet a gang o’perfumistas  and ended the day feeling like I had taken part in a giant cuddle.  Thanks to Pia Long and caronNick Gilbert, we gathered in London and talked and sniffed all the day long, ending with a bellyful of cake and tea. Sheer bliss. People like that make me hopeful. Kindness is rife, rampant and contagious.  Long may it ravage us all! Many tiny snowflakes make an avalanche.

Looking back, 2016 was an interesting year scent wise. I got to know several new brands and perfume houses. Perfume trends in general, are, I think, changing.  Celebrity sales are down and niche sales are up. The tide is turning and I like it.

What I Am Most Looking forward to in 2017
papillon-samLiz Moores of Papillon Perfumery has promised a new release sometime in 2017. Rumoured to be a chypre (claps hands and whoops) I am already in the line with a Thermos of tea and sleeping in Liz’s teepee so I can be first in the queue.  Despite having made only four perfumes so far, Liz’s fragrances already have the permanence of classics. There are no weak links. Quality is outstanding.  By the way, for some reason I always wear Papillon Angelique to christenings. It seems to “go”. New life, optimism, pearls…

ruthsam3In other news the  Ruth Mastenbroek promises us a fourth scent in her range. I know little about it so far as it is still in development stage, but rest assured, it will be reviewed right here..

I also plan to head London-wards to drop in on the 4160 Tuesdays studio. I haven’t been since 2014 and I want to see if my new smaller bottom will fit in the swing.  I’m hoping Sarah McCartney will let me sniff a few single notes that I sometimes get stuck on, and sell me a load of scent swag. (I’m taking a very large bag).

4160samples

I am keen to see what Avon comes up with this year. They made two of my most frequently worn scents this year and neither cvost me more than £7.  Rare Platinum is a tuberose lover’s dream and Perceive Oasis is peonies and roses on a summer day. I’m also excited to see what else Beaufort London has in store after the show stopping Fathom V.  More to come from this audacious house and their wonderfully named “Hell or High Water” range.

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And one last thing.. oh yes,. Watchthis space as I put my very shy self into YouTube territory. I’m scared just writing that, but one has to move with the times. Scary!

clapperHAPPY NEW YEAR!

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Good Girl Gone Bad by Kilian 2012

goodgirl

 

Kilian Hennessey, the hottie of the perfume world, has just opened a By Kilian boutique in the exclusive Burlington Arcade in Knightsbridge.  You may recall that I mentioned my visit in my recent post Pia and Nick’s Smelly Cakey Perfume Meet Up.

On a day where sniffing perfumes was the number one activity, it seemed ironic to me that I fell for the first one I smelled and could find nothing to compare during the rest of the day. To be fair though, all subsequent scents were drowned in a general miasma and were hard to distinguish.

goodcat

Good Girl Gone Bad had been sprayed prior to me entering the boutique and that big tuberose was my first scent of the day. “What is that amazing tuberose-y smell?” I exclaimed as I crossed the threshold. Dear reader, this good girl went mad for it.

Good Girl Gone Bad opens with Indian tuberose. There’s a lot of Osmanthus in there, (which smells like apricot blossom), but the tuberose kept tapping me on the shoulder. There’s jasmine too, but that didn’t get much of a look in, nor did the rose, nor the narcissus. To me, this was all about the tuberose. Sometimes it can get so intense that it almost collapses into a vegetable note- usually celery or even  fennel.  That’s exactly what happens here. The tuberose, so rich and creamy, becomes both celery like and slightly salty at the same time. It’s borderline savoury, but doesn’t quite  put its toe over that line. At the same time, this is feminine- almost exaggeratedly so. There was talk of a Parisienne countess who owns a carafe of it- or did I imagine that?

I’ve never smelled tuberose quite like this. It was like a drug to me. There’s allegedly amber and cedar in the base,  but you know when you fall in love and can see nobody else in a crowded room? That’s the tuberose in Good Girl Gone Bad. I only had nostrils for you, my darling.

Stockists

You can buy this at By Kilian, or at Harvey Nichols. It’s really expensive, so if you buy a bottle, you have to give me a decant. I’ll be your best friend.

 Photos: Fragrantica and The Telegraph

WANTED! The Notorious Tubereuse Criminelle.

 

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The first time I heard of Tubereuse Criminelle  was on Mumsnet. A Mumsnetter found it so appallingly bad that she was inspired to start a thread entitled “Worst Ever Perfumes”.  The thread is now in its sixth incarnation, which means over 5,000 replies have been posted and the thread has evolved from worst to best, from SOTDs to recommendations hither and thither.  Samples have been swapped and perfume true loves have been discovered.  And all because of the notorious Tubereuse Criminelle.

fragrancelife.ru
fragrancelife.ru

Created by the prestigious and prolific Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens, Criminelle is certainly a Madame with dark intentions.  I have long thought that Tuberose, when good quality, is creamy almost to the point of being medicinal, and Christopher Sheldrake must have thought the same (I flatter myself to think we agree, he is a genius and I, a mere passionate amateur). Sheldrake has taken the almost chemical notes of uber strong, nuclear Tuberose and concentrated it to the Nth degree until it smells like something else, at least initially.

On first spray, Criminelle smells like  TCP antiseptic along with clean fabric sticking plasters.  This is not a complaint: I rather like it. Then it smells like the pink mouth wash you get at a dentist, then it finally calms down a bit and the Tuberose (XXX strong), starts to come out after doing a rather tricky striptease in the opening Act.

The Tuberose is accompanied by Jasmine, Hyacinth, and Orange Blossom, with a base of Styrax,  Clove and Nutmeg.  What this translates to on my skin is: Antiseptic, then Tuberose to the Max, and finally a faint whiff of dried leaves, like old pot pourri still with satiny Tuberose infusing everything.

This is utterly dastardly in its deception and its tricksy opening, and then a triumph as the bud opens to reveals the flower.

wiki
wiki

Longevity, as you would expect from a Serge, is around nine hours.  Two things: don’t wear it in company before noon, and don’t buy it blind. I would love a full bottle of this, and would treasure it like gold.

I have a very kind soul to thank for this sample- follower and friend of the blog, meganinstmaxime sent me this sample all the way from France.  In keeping with its crafty nomenclature, this sample disappeared into thin air after I tried it.  I looked everywhere- even going through the bin at one point. I turned my house upside down, raiding drawers, my handbag, my desk, the sofa, the kitchen and everywhere you could think of.

This morning I found it- on the chopping board.  Why? What on earth…? I tell you, this is a crafty one.

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Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose and Gardenia

 tuberose

I first tried Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose and Gardenia (Phew!, can we call it ELPCTG instead?) about a year ago when I wasn’t close friends with Tuberose. I found it too creamy and cloying and dismissed it as Not My Thing.

However, the last year of blogging and discovery has been an education for me and now that I appreciate both Tuberose and Gardenia, I regard this fragrance as something of a modern masterpiece.

mgonline.com
mgonline.com

It sounds simple enough: just those two leading stars named in the title, but this is so much more than a double act.

First off, Jasmine plays a part in the immediate radiance, but Lilac opens with a solo.  There is a dawn-like morning petal feeling to the bright opening and it’s only after that little showcase that the Tuberose and Gardenia step in and do their number. The genius of this is in the blending.  Gardenia never seems to hang about long, but the Tuberose seems to anchor it.  Tuberose on its own can be creamy and rich, almost to the point of smelling medicinal, but the Gardenia brings out the best in it and calms it down, like a kind friend with a loud drunk.

This not only has big sillage, but is radiant from the first squoosh. Longevity is excellent. It’s still on my arm six hours later and quite comfortably too, in no danger of fading fast. In Perfumes The Guide, Luca Turin, a big fan of ELPCTG, says that both Gardenia and Tuberose are “better sprayed on fabric” and judging by the incredibly lovely scent coming from my coat sleeve, he is right. It’s great on skin, but lasts and lingers on fabric like a dream.

This is a modern classic.  It’s widely available: I found today’s bottle in my local House of Fraser, but as far as High Street perfumes go, this knocks spots off the rest of them. The price is a little steeper than average, but considering the sillage, quality, longevity and the fact that a little goes a very long way, I still call it good value at under £60 for 30ml.  Even a small bottle would last me a very long time. Impossibly pretty, this would make a great wedding day perfume or even an anniversary present*.

*(if you’re reading this darling, it’s only three weeks away, hint, hint).

Chloe Original by Karl Lagerfeld 1975: A Seventies classic at Seventies prices.

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Chloe Original is not to be confused with the current Chloe with a bow around its neck. Chloe Original was created by Karl Lagerfeld in 1975 and is a little bit of a retro classic (although it was not called Original back then. The flotilla of remakes could not have been predicted).

Available for under 15GBP for 50ml (see below), this is easily obtained and a good use of anyone’s perfume budget.  When I first tried it, I found it cloying and too rich with no room to breathe.

However, fast forward a few years and my understanding of scent, and particularly Tuberose, persuades me that this is a very good perfume indeed, and a 1970s classic at that, worthy of standing shoulder to shoulder with its contemporary: Anais Anais.

chloe ead

The most dominant top notes are Aldehydes (just in the beginning before they fade to powder), Peaches (sadly not a favourite) Honeysuckle and flowers galore. Even if Peaches are not your thing, and they’re certainly not my cup of tea, do bear with Chloe because after a while it turns into a Rose, Tuberose, Jasmine flowerfest with a little Sandalwood and Amber to round things off.

For some, the busy-ness of the many flowers may be de trop, but if you “get” or like Tuberose (they are not always mutually exclusive), then you have yourself a bargain. It is a warm, rich floral, as opposed to being a “fresh” floral or a light cologne floral.

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Longevity is very good at around eight hours, and the price is right too. You can find Chloe on Amazon for a mere 16.50 for 50ml, although I have seen it even cheaper in High Street stores such as Bodycare and Savers, should you be near a branch. I bought a bottle last year for 9.99 for 30ml in my local branch of Bodycare and they are still there.

I have a soft spot for Seventies perfumes and enjoy wearing them. It reminds me of the decade when I was a child and times seemed more simple.  When they are of good quality such as Chloe Original, it’s worth doling out a tenner for a blast from the past that has aged rather well.

 

 

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Elizabeth Taylor Diamonds and Emeralds: Almost Nearly Potentially Good

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As you may have realised by now, I am constantly on the trail of a low rent bargain: a high quality gem hiding behind its low price. Sometimes I am lucky, more often than not I am disappointed.  Still, I can always cheer myself up with a squirt of (non cheap) Carillon pour un Ange. It seems to be just what the Doctor ordered of late. It provides great comfort and succour for those moments when you are staring at your new low cost purchase in disillusionment. Again.

ImageSadly, Dame Elizabeth’s glamorous offering, Diamonds and Emeralds is that very purchase. Like a Magpie, I was attracted to the pretty box, the pretty bottle, and the image of Diamonds and Emeralds. Great name, great lady. Fabulous jewellery.

I have previously tried Diamonds and Rubies and found it shockingly bad. It’s in my Perfumed Turkey Hall of Infamy. It’s like being attacked by Peach flavoured Plasticine in a guest toilet that is dressed floor to ceiling in peach lace, right down to the toilet lid and toilet roll holder. It was an assault on my senses and easily one of the worst commercial smells I have ever encountered.

liz emeraldsDiamonds and Emeralds isn’t quite as nasty, and starts off showing a great deal of potential. First off, the Gardenia hits you rather prettily.  As soon as that has registered, rich, creamy tuberose comes out to play.  Just as I was enjoying the tuberose and feeling smug about my low cost purchase, along came a gang of aggressive peaches and sprayed me to death with cheap air freshener. Sadly this synthetic peach note is the longest lasting phase.  If they had just held back on the peaches, this could possibly have been a rather old fashioned, inexpensive tuberose classic  Not in the same category as the Great Fracas of course, but in a sort of “it’ll do”  category. Madonna made a good attempt at affordable tuberose in Truth or Dare, but Diamonds and Emeralds is a fleeting waft of synthetics in comparison.

How very sad, since I badly wanted this 80s Dynasty style diamanté encrusted bottle on my dressing table, but I’m afraid it might scare the good stuff away.

The only pleasure I had from Diamonds and Emeralds was found in looking at the photographs of the real McCoy at the auction of Dame Elizabeth’s jewellery.  How wonderful to look on such a masterpiece.  I guess nothing was ever going to match up to the real thing.

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Robert Piguet FRACAS (EDP): Remarkable simplicity.

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 Fracas has been around since 1948 and was relaunched in 1998. It has been popular since its conception by the great Germaine Cellier (who I love just for making my beloved Balmain Jolie Madame).

Famous fans are rumoured to include  Supermodel Iman, Madonna, the late Edie Sedgewick,  the late, great Isabella Blow, and Joanna “Lovely”Lumley to name but a few (I left out Ivana Trump).

Fracas has inspired other perfumes too: Madonna’s Truth or Dare is said to be a homage to Fracas since it was her late Mother’s favourite scent. Karl Lagerfeld’s Chloe Original is a massive Tuberose, and not at all dissimilar.

I have been wearing Fracas today and could not help but admire it. It’s longevity is excellent, bordering on the clingy, like a guest that just won’t leave, but that’s no bad thing in a perfume.

I was surprised to see on Fragrantica that as many as 25 notes were listed for Fracas. After the admittedly fruity citrus top note, which smells similar to freshly sprayed Joy by Jean Patou, I got only one note in the drydwon. Tuberose. In spades, and shovels and with bows on. Tuberose has that unmistakable floral creaminess, rich and cloying, almost to the point of smelling medicinal, in the ways that Lilies can. I am growing to like Tuberose rather than love it, even though it has my great respect already.

I remember some years ago buying a 30ml bottle of KL Chloe Original, and passing it on after about a month of not getting on with it all. What I thought at the time were overly sweet flowers, was in fact a huge Tuberose note, so if you like Fracas, you might want to try Chloe Original. It’s usually not much more than around 15GBP for 30ml these days. Madonna’s Truth or Dare is even less, and not bad at all: surprisingly traditional and ladylike for one whose crotch seems so familiar to me.

Whilst I understand that Tuberose is very beautiful and greatly esteemed, I think it’s going to be something I grow into. At the moment I am not enamoured, although I do quite like its clean soapiness. Fracas is impossibly feminine and beautiful, and even though I’m not in love with it, it has certainly held my interest all day and I can’t stop sniffing it. I wish more people would wear it. I can certainly handle it on them, if not myself.

Classic and sophisticated, wear with a light hand, but do try it.

PS I have included a link to The Celebrity Fragrance GuideA fascinating list of celebrities’ favourite perfumes. I can’t vouch for its authenticity, but I went into a trance whilst reading it- utterly compulsive and fascinating.