Tag Archives: rose fragrance

Annick Goutal Rose PomPon 2016: Roses Come Out To Play

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With a name like Rose PomPon you might expect a pretty, playful fragrance, and you’d be right. Annick Goutal Rose PomPon is a delightful rose scent that is made green and quirky with the addition of both raspberries and blackcurrants. Sometimes blackcurrants can smell like cat pee, but not here. Here their bitterness and greenery is brought out alongside creamy centifolia rose until I was reminded more of fresh tomato leaves than Ribena.

The flower petals add to the feminine feel of PomPon: rose and peony make it their own. I always think peony is the textbook note when “light and girly” is required and this is no exception.

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The base is long lasting and has hints of clean white musk and faint woods. There is patchouli here, but it is only a whisper.

With the combination of raspberry, blackcurrant and the ubiquitous pink pepper (a berry, not a spice), this could be placed in the fruity floral category. However, the roses and peony are allowed to dominate, whilst the fruit makes both even greener and lighter, skipping any hints of fruit cocktail or overpowering sweetness. It’s not typical of the genre: it has a lot more to offer.

This is a rose for a modern girl. If I had to sum it up I would call it a rose fraiche. I wouldn’t turn a bottle down any time soon. The only thing about Rose PomPon that isn’t pretty, is the greed it brought out in me. There have been so many Must Buys lately that 2016 is shaping up to be a superb year for fragrance and a terrible year for my bank account.

Wear with a tea dress.

Stockists

I got my sample from the Perfume Society Exquisite Essences Discovery Box. You can buy a full bottle from Escentual, Harvey Nichols or House of Fraser.

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E Coudray Iris Rose: A Perfect Blend

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E Coudray Iris Rose was just one of twelve scents contained in The Perfume Society Exquisite Essences Discovery Box . I have been dipping in and out and liking what I sniff but this one coshed me with a club and dragged me back to its cave. I’m in love and powerless to fight it.

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I have had a chequered past with iris. Some iris scents make me run in the other direction (Editions Frederic Malle Iris Poudre, I’m talking to you) while others drew me in like a smitten kitten. E Coudray Iris Rose is the latter and it has shot to the top of my lengthy wish list, which is no mean feat if you saw how long it is.

Opening unsurprisingly with Iris and Rose, this is a dominantly iris fragrance that reminded me of Chanel No 5, but with fewer aldehydes. Imagine a version of Chanel No 5 where they took almost everything out except the flowers. Now add some musk and violets. If that sounds good to you, then you will love Iris Rose.

According to Fragrantica, there is also Labdanum, vanilla and tonka bean in here somewhere, but I could find no trace. There were violets and heliotrope alongside the iris, which made me think of Guerlain Apres L’Ondee, only this is more floral. The base has musk, woods and patchouli, but its the musk that emerges as the frontrunner when all’s said and done. The iris is like ironed sheets and clean parchment, and has none of the rooty carrotty-ness that it sometimes has in other scents.  The blend of rose and iris together is seamless and beautiful to the point where I feel I should Brangelina its name to Riris or Rosis. There is a hint of powdery lipstick-ness as it finishes with a long lasting flourish and this gives Riris/Rosis a retro feel that cries out for a vintage dressing table.

Stockists

You can get a sample of E Coudray Iris Rose in the Perfume Society Exquisite Essences Discovery Box. You can buy a full 100ml bottle from Escentual or Amazon UK.

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Andy Tauer PHI Rose de Kandahar-It’s Here!

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I am an unabashed fan of Andy Tauer. That doesn’t mean I blindly love everything he does: for some reason Reverie au Jardin disagrees with me, but I’d pretty much take a Tauer scent any day of the week.

What I love about Tauers is that Andy is a one man show.  He’s not a boardroom full of shirts looking at focus groups and trends.  He doesn’t have to go through a comittee and he’s not part of a global organisation (apart from having a distribution partner).  He’s a lone wolf and that makes things very interesting right from the start.

The development of PHI Rose de Kandahar has been well documented via Andy’s blog and Facebook page and it’s finally available in the UK.  This is a limited edition as Andy’s vat of Rose de Kandaher absolute is not bottomless (hence its inclusion in the “Collectibles” range). So now I finally have my treasured sample. Was it worth it?  Oh yes.

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fragrantica.com

PHI Rose de Kandahar has a Middle Eastern richness to it. Initially it’s honeyed roses and almonds and dried apricots: it reminds me of a scented Souk. At first this edible combination was very Turkish Delight, just for a moment.  But what happens next is that it transforms into, unless I’m mistaken, something not unlike a good Arabian Oud.  I often find Oud too strong for me, but in Rose de Kandahar it’s like a robust backdrop to something altogether more delicate. The irony is that there is no Oud in it, but the combination of tobacco, ambergris, vetiver and patchouli gives this a very rich and almost prickly base.   It’s like serving an aromatic Bacchanalian feast on a rough granite table. The contrast of the rough with the smooth enhances the delicacy of the ingredients.

Here are the notes as listed on Fragrantica:

 apricot, cinnamon,
bitter almond, bergamot

Rose of Kandahar essential oil,
Bulgaria rose absolute, Bourbon geranium, dried tobacco leaves.

patchouli, vetiver, vanilla,
tonka beans, musk, ambergris.

 There is an interesting Feel Good back-story to this.  The Kandahar roses that produce this absolute were grown in Afghanistan by farmers that have been subsidised to produce roses instead of growing plants that provide the base materials for drug use (“Hungerhilfe”). In other words, Make Roses, Not Drugs.

The wonderful fragrance alone is reason enough to love this, but  add the milk of human kindness and  you have just one of the many reasons to love PHI Rose de Kandahar.

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