Tag Archives: Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac

The IScent Review of The Perfume Society Men’s Edit Box

mens edit

The other day someone told me that men wear aftershave and women wear perfume. Now, as you can imagine, I begged to differ. My opponent was adamant. Men can’t wear perfume and women can’t wear after shave.  Since my adversary was my seven-year-old son, I couldn’t help feeling that I’d failed him as a mother. He also told me there’s no such name as Kenneth and that he can outrun a Jaguar, but I was less worried about that.

Let me be clear, as a politician would say (can’t remember which one, probably all of them), after shave is fragrance.  Perfume is fragrance. Whatever it says on the label,  if you like how it smells on you, you can wear it.

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I do occasionally stage a heist into my husband’s side of the bedroom, but seeing as I chose them all for him, that shouldn’t come as a surprise.

Those nice people at The Perfume Society recently sent me the Men’s Edit Discovery Box, and discovery is the right word. Reader, I have been enlightened. It’s all very well my bemoaning the fact that men don’t wear enough roses, but how about I put my money where my mouth is and wear more so called “mascs” myself? Well, after trying the Men’s Edit box, I can assure you that there are at least three I will be buying full bottles of. Join me why don’t you?

I’m going to write mini reviews below and shall focus on some in more detail later in the blog. Here’s what’s in the box:

layton

 Parfums de Marly Layton 1.2ml eau de parfum (normally £145 for 75ml)

Parfums de Marly is a brand that’s new to me. In the previous Perfume Society Discovery Box- Latest Launches, the women’s fragrance, Delina, was a classy and distinctive mélange of rhubarb and the pinkest of flowers. Layton is of the same high quality and classy distinction. It opens with apples and lavender and calms down into a multi layered wood-fest of every wood from light to to dark to smoky. A flourish of vanilla warms it up. It reminds me of a cosy oak panelled tobacconist. Beware- the middle phase blew my socks off.

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  • Dunhill Icon Elite 2ml eau de parfum (£95 for 100ml)

The nose behind this is Carlos Benaim, who also made Dior Pure Poison, Viktor anf Rolf Flowerbomb and the original Ralph Lauren Polo fragrance, to name but a few from his staggeringly prestigious portfolio.

My primary reaction to Dunhill Icon was “Aha! Suede”.  It’s a leathery nubuck scent, somehow stronger than suede, which I always identify as a softer toned down version of  leather. I con is dark and tarry, and so leathery that it almost tipped me over into liquorice territory. Addictively sniffable, this smells like the bare chest of a man who has just removed his leather jacket. Trust me, that’s A Good Thing.

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  • Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac 2ml eau de parfum (£95 for 100ml)

I adore this classic  (pronounced Foy de Tabac) and declare it totally unisex. I reviewed it  a while back and remember that I rather fancied making my whole house smell this way. It’s the scent of a wood panelled gentleman’s club in Paris. Smoky, woody, herby, lovely.  escentric E

  • Escentric Molecules E 032ml eau de parfum (£72 for 100ml)

This opens with big stringent, clean scented lime, with a hint of black pepper. The vetiver comes out straight away, and the whole thing stays that way for a few hours. After that, the base is sandalwood and clean musk. The lime and vetiver combo never quits though, and this had me thinking of dazzling white shirt cuffs and expensive suits. Yum.

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  • Escentric Molecules M 03 2ml eau de parfum (£72 for 100ml)

The only note listed fior this is Vetiver.  However, I beg to differ. This stunning fragrance smelled like scorched palm leaves for a few seconds then disappeared.  Then it came back as a sort of sharp, green citrus with a bitter orange edge.  Throughout the day, it gradually morphed into what I can only describe as a grapefruit chypre.  It’s the most vivid grapefruit scent: pith, juice and peel, with an earthy green base.  I completely fell headlong in love with this and I’m so glad I wandered out of my comfort zone, because I would never have stumbled across this otherwise.   Definitely a full bottle scent.

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  • Clive Christian Nobile VIII Magnolia 1.5ml eau de parfum (£350 for 50ml)

Getting my mitts on a Clive Christian sample is always a rare treat. They don’t come along every day, that’s for sure. This magnolia fragrance is utterly transporting, and as a magnolia fan, I loved it.  Again, I call this unisex. I’d marinate in it if I could.  Longevity is outstandingly good. I shall be reviewing this one in more detail soon.

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  • Clive Christian Nobile VIII Immortelle 

1.5ml eau de parfum (£350 for 50ml)

This stuff really packs a punch. Immortelle is also known as the everlasting flower- a bit like  a yellow cornflower. It has a spicy, faintly curry like nuance, but here it is overtaken by the robust vetiver. It’s a strong, statement fragrance that shouldn’t be worn before breakfast, but should be strongly encouraged for evening.

jimmy choo man ice

  • Jimmy Choo MAN ICE2ml eau de toilette (from £30 for 30ml)

This is an invigorating grapefruit and lemon scent that reminded me a little of Annick Goutal Eau D’Hadrien. It’s fantastically light and revitalizing  with a mossy finish and I’ve no idea why it’s “For Men” because I am seriously getting myself a full bottle.

initio

  • Initio Parfums Magnetic Blend 7 1.2ml eau de parfum (£154 for 90ml)

Amplifying the power of pheromonal molecules to provoke instinct through a sublime breed of violence.

initio adIt’s a lofty claim and one that’s hard to talk about objectively. On Fragrantica, the description doesn’t do it justice- the only note listed is musk. However, this musk will react differently on your skin than it will on mine.  On mine it smells like plasticine.  On you it may smell different. The jury’s out, but I remain intrigued. Maybe in six hours’ time I will become irresistible to all. I’ll get back to you.

EDIT- six hours later my cats keep sniffing my arm where I sprayed this but I can smell nothing. Don’t be put off, I get the feeling this is like one of those lipsticks that changes colour according to your body heat. Results will vary.

bentley momentumad

  • Bentley Momentum1.8ml eau de toilette (£59 for 100ml)

This has huge sillage and longevity and is full of ambergris, sandalwood, moss and musk.  Described as an oriental Fougere, the Nose behind it is the legendary Nathalie Lorson, who has created more major fragrances than I could list, but I can tell you that she made Black Opium, so she knows a thing or two about big hitters, as this one certainly is.

Photo from Sports Illustrated Getty Images
Photo from Sports Illustrated Getty Images
  • Cristiano Ronaldo Legacy 2ml eau de toilette (£29 for 30ml)

Finally, my sons and I have some middle ground to talk about. Football meets fragrance. This is a very decent offering in Ronaldo’s name (let’s not even pretend celebrities make them, OK?). This is a leathery floral musk with daring hints of peony and violet. I say daring because football fans are not known for their penchant for peony. I am happy to be corrected. This is nothing too edgy or original, and you can only find the flowers if our nose seeks them out, but it is the same vein as a good David Beckham scent, only with more fuzzy violets. The Jury’s out on whether it helps you win football tournaments.

eye gel

  • Aromatherapy Associates Refinery Eye Gel15ml – worth £31

A generous sample in manly grey packaging. I like that there are other goodies in Perfume Society Discovery Boxes in sizes generous enough to have a decent trial of the product.

penhaligons moisturiser

  • Penhaligon’s No. 33 Moisturiser 5ml (normally £38 for 75ml)

This comes in the cutest tube in the world. It’s perfect for an overnight stay and smells divine, as you might expect.

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Where to buy

You can buy The Perfume Society Men’s Edit from The Perfume Society website for £19 or £15 to subscribers. Subscribing costs just £25  a year and gives a wide range of benefits of which discounted Discovery Boxes are just one. My box was sent ot me by the Perfume Society in exchange for an honest review. Opinions are my own and this was not a sponsored post.

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Miller Harris La Fumée: This’ll Put Hairs on Your Chest

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 Miller Harris La Fumée is a butch, smoky delight full of resin and hard edged spice.

If you like Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan or Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain, then read on.  

Whilst I admire La Fumée, I find I am not as fond of it as I am of another Miller Harris that I reviewed recently: Feuilles de Tabac, which has delightful leather and a papery scent that I enjoyed.

 La Fumée has that resinous dried smoke effect that is prevalent in both Ambre Sultan and L’Air du Desert Marocain (aka LADDM). However, whilst I liked the ecclesiastical feel of LADDM, I did not like Ambre Sultan.  In my review, as I recall, it reminded me of the cloud of smoke you would find above a group of insalubrious youths. There is a dryness to Ambre Sultan that catches at the back of my throat, like cigar smoke. That same dry note is present in La Fumée . However, my disliking of La Fumée was a near miss since I would consider scenting my (non smoking) home with this, but I would not put it on my skin. Call me fickle.

 I admire its richness: it has strong Birch, and Elemi ( a substance used in cough mixtures) and it does indeed remind me of a cross between cigar smoke and rum, but as much as I like a bit of Butch from time to time, this was a tiny bit de trop for my taste.  It’ll put hairs on your chest for sure! Maybe that’s what I’m afraid of.

Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac: Smoke and Brasseries

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 I asked my seven year old son what he thought of Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. I didn’t prompt him, just told him to say the first thing that came into his head.  This is not always without risk and is usually about Star Wars, but in this case he said “Some sort of spice: it smells like hot sand”.  I was pretty impressed, although it’s usually L’Air Du Desert Marocain Imagethat makes me think of hot sand.

Giles Deacon, no slacker when it comes to good taste, is a big fan of Feuilles de Tabac and scents his home with it. Feuilles (pronounced “Foy”) means leaves or pages or layers. Feuilles de Tabac is marketed as a masculine, but I say knickers to that, being a fan of Old Spice and Dior Fahrenheit.

I have finally got around to reviewing this treasure because the hot weather just doesn’t do it justice.  In the cold air of Autumn, this can come out to play and hit the open road.

Feuilles de Tabac was created to “take you to the romantic brasseries of St Germain”, and if you’ve ever been lucky enough to go to Paris on a chilly day, you may recognise a fug of tobacco, spice and old books. Paris also smells of tarmac, body odour and garlic, but let’s not break the spell.

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taken on my last trip to Paris.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As usual with Miller Harris, quality and longevity are outstanding and Feuilles de Tabac gives a rich, leathery spice trail with sillage that is around arms’ length but would be very welcome in even a small space.

Top note is Chilli, and middle notes are Sage and Pine. Basenotes are Tobacco, Patchouli and Tonka bean.  Unlike other fragrances who claim to have notes that are not there, with Miller Harris, every note listed is very much discernible, despite being seamlessly blended.

The overall impression is one of green sharp herbs, Patchouli and deep aromatic smoke.  It’s more attractive than the other Miller Harris masculine La Fumee, which I found a bit dry. Masculine or feminine, this is fabulous for Autumn and I feel quite sorry that I only have a small phial of it.

I’ll leave the last words to a great Parisian, and one of my idols, now sadly in Pere Lachaise. Edith Piaf’s beautiful song, Autumn Leaves popped into my head whilst writing this review.

Since you went away, The days grow long, and soon I’ll hear old winter songs. But I miss you most of all my darling, when autumn leaves start to fall

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