Tag Archives: L’Eau D’Issey

A Scent by Issey Miyake: Here Comes Summer

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Issey Miyake is the epitome of Nineties fragrances. He blew away the cobwebs of loud shouty Eighties scents that would enter the room before your shoulder pads could squeeze through the doorway. Along came the calm, caring, sharing Nineties with its neutrals and its Green is Good philosophy. L’Eau D’Issey, created in 1992, was everywhere. At one point in the 90s I think I knew more people who wore it than people who didn’t  It’s not my cup of tea, but that clean, Ozonic scent  can whisk me back to 1993 quicker than you can say Sleepless In Seattle.

Fast forward to last week, 2013.  I’d heard that Issey MiyakeA Scent was very similar to Chanel Cristalle. I knew that Issey Miyake made good perfume. I saw that Escentual had a sale on. These three facts dovetailed until I found myself the proud owner of a rather beautiful bottle of A Scent by Issey Miyake last week.

It is very similar to Cristalle. In fact, if you cannot afford Cristalle this is a good bet. I bought my 30ml  for £15.00. If anything it is greener than Cristalle. The instant visual image it planted in my head was of scenes when I was young and always picking flowers and grasses and mashing them up to make mud pies. I’d dissect ferns and leaves and flower stems and get a good green and bitter juice out of them.  This came rushing back to me when I smelled A Scent. The bitter Galbanum is delicious, coupled with citrussy Lemon. However, the bitterness is tempered with flowers to sweeten it and tone it down. I was amazed to see no Lily of The Valley in here. I was sure I could smell les muguets.

On a hot day this lively, clean green will slice through any heat and leave a refreshingly bitter note on your skin, a bit like  a Gin and Tonic with Lime. It’s zingy and clean and glorious, if you, like me, love your Green notes.

It even has slight similarities with my beloved and much mourned Gucci Envy. It’s all Grass and Lemon and Hyacinth.

My only gripe with this is that the spray comes out fast, rather than misting you sparingly,  and therefore my bottle is already 2cm down after only two days of wear. Longevity isn’t great, but if you use my age old tip of spraying clothes and hair, you should should get pleasing whispers of it by the end of the day.

Beautiful and pure as crystal, this may yet knock my Cristalle off her Queenly perch. IScent loves A Scent.

 

 

Boucheron Trouble: Uh-Oh!

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Am I wearing Boucheron Trouble today? Or has somebody squished a Lemon Meringue Pie in my face and tried to wash it off with Dior Addict?  Trouble was created in 2004 by prolific nose Jacques Cavallier, also guilty of the iconic scent of the 90s L’Eau D’Issey, which turned a corner in the world of fragrance and turned our heads from the loud frenzy of In Your Face 80s scents and introduced a quieter 90s calm. I wouldn’t hesitate to call him a game changer, and he has my enormous respect. (Even though I don’t actually like L’Eau D’Issey on me at all)

Rumour has it Boucheron Trouble is discontinued. Die hard fans needn’t weep, however, since this is so similar to Dior’s Addict that apart from the aforementioned Lemon Meringue Pie,  there is very little difference between the two.  Sadly Dior Addict does not suit me. It smells like someone has licked me and I don’t like that. It’s an Oriental lite with some sort of dried pheromone smell that reminds me of saliva. Fragrantica lists the notes of Trouble as follows: Dyer’s Greenwood, Lemon, Jasmine, Cedar and Amber. Are you thinking the same as me? “What on earth is Dyer’s Greenwood?” I had to look it up. Dyer’s Greenwood is a cool, bracken like scent often used in healing tinctures. Sadly, despite it being a top note, I did not  smell it at all.

The opening notes are instead creamy, milky and lemony, hence the Lemon Meringue scent. Sillage is acceptable: you could wear it to the office. Longevity is not bad: around five hours.

Would I buy this? No. I would not. But I would buy a slice of Lemon Meringue Pie as it has given me a tremendous appetite for it. Sorry Trouble, you’re far too tame. I was hoping for something Wicked. Note: This is actually yesterday’s review but Gremlins in the machine forbade my posting.

Marks and Spencer Per Una Originale For Women: Haven’t We Met Someplace Before?

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Marks and Spencer is becoming a force to be reckoned with in the High Street Fragrance Wars.  Lyn Harris of Miller Harris fame has climbed on board and produced a remarkable range at a reasonable price. Roger and Gallet are also to be found on their shelves, as are Fragonard, with their exquisite packaging.  Sadly, and apologies for the anti climax, none of the aforementioned ranges have reached my local branch. Sadface.  There’s a still a good selection though, if you keep walking past choky, cloying Florentyna.

I have it on good authority that Per Una Exquisite smells almost exactly like the much missed Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs. Autograph New York is a fresh floral with gourmand vanilla basenotes.  It’s also no secret that Marks and Spencer Isis smells very similar to Issy Miyake L’Eau D’Issey, the ozonic fragrance hit of the Nineties.

This review is for Per Una Originale Eau de Toilette. Although Per Una Originale  is not a dupe or a copy, I  could not help noticing that it is very similar to Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely.  Here’s what the M and S website says “Flowers of magnolia, jasmine, rose and summer freesias mingle with a sensuous background of woods, heliotrope and patchouli to give added depth.”

Just like Lovely, the opening is all fresh, light flowers, no Tuberose, nothing too heady, followed by a background of Patchouli to give it that slightly Fresh Spicy accord. It is hard to point out the differences as they are so slim. I think Lovely has the edge though, certainly on longevity. Prices are good for Per Una Originale, starting at £4 for a 10ml purse spray: a good way to try before investing in a big bottle. However, at £12 for a 50ml bottle, you wouldn’t have to sell your house to afford it. Looking online, current offers include buy one get one half price, so you may as well buy a few different ones to test. Any excuse…

I have bought a 10ml bottle which is the perfect size for my handbag. It is slightly more floral than Lovely (more Magnolia and Rose), but a very close contender: a pleasant fresh fragrance with a resonant Patchouli-Lite base.

Affordable, accessible, and a wide enough range to avoid smelling like everyone else, Marks and Spencer have got it right.