Tag Archives: lanvin Rumeur

Lanvin Rumeur 2 Rose: Wishy Washy Roses On a Wishy Washy Day.

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First of all, I love Lanvin Rumeur. It was made by St Francis of Kurkdjian, or rather re-launched by him after its original creation in 1934.  Rumeur is beautifully retro and feminine (see my earlier review), so you can imagine how my interest was piqued when I saw a 50ml bottle of Lanvin Rumeur 2 Rose on sale for 20GBP today (Superdrug).

Well it’s been fruitied up and flowered about for the younger market and result is disappointing.  It’s not unpleasant, but it would blend in with everything else that is worn today. Sillage is poor and the longevity reminds me of when you use your favourite shower gel.  It smells great in the shower, and possibly for another twenty minutes, but after that?  “There it was, gone!”as we say in Wales.

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Rumeur2Rose has almost nothing to do with the original Rumeur  as far as scent goes.  There are Roses, a bit of Pear and some nameless generic fruity notes, maybe some White Musk for a fleeting second, but that’s about all you get. It lasted nearly an hour on my skin, which would please me were this a cologne, but for an EDT that’s pretty poor.  It smells as if it had been washed off by the rain, which despite severe weather warnings for Wales, it was not.

Save your money and invest in Rumeur instead. It is all Magnolia, Patchouli and Woody florals. Divine.  Rumeur2Rose? Walk on by my friend.

Elie Saab Le Parfum Eau de Toilette

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 On Friday I went out with my dear school friend Jo.  I was in her slipstream most of the evening (everyone was taller than me that night) and she smelled incredible.  Naturally I asked her what it was and had a try.

Elie Saab is a brilliant perfume that really stands out from the crowd.  Whereas many High Street perfume counters these days are guilty of selling the same stuff in different bottles, with Elie Saab, you would be stepping out of the line and banging your own drum. And you would smell amazing.

It came as no surprise to me at all that this was created by the legendary Francis Kurkdjian who has made several superb fragrances that I love.  Indeed, Elie Saab does smell like a cousin of LANVIN Rumeur, with that hint of retro acetone/nail polish and glamour to it. It always makes me think of the inside of an elegant lady’s handbag in the 1950s.

 Elie Saab opens with Orange Blossom, but what I could really smell was the Gardenia, one of my favourite floral scents.  This is no simple floral however, and with Mr Kurkdjian in the driving seat, it will never be as simple as that.   The Vetiver melds into the Gardenia, taking it from innocence to seduction in one smooth move. The long lasting ending is both tart and woody. I didn’t smell any of the Honey that was promised, which is fine by me.  This was a wonderful scent to smell among the melange of same old same old, and it lasted all night long.

Unlike me.

Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDT: About Turn

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 I have often sung the praises of Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely: it is affordable, beautifully packaged and smells wonderful.  However, having finally met Narciso Rodriguez For Her, I feel my credit ought to have gone elsewhere.  They are so alike it is easy to mix them up when tested blind.  I could not tell them apart.

Whilst I still love Lovely, and will always have a bottle of it on my dressing table, it was launched in 2005, whilst NR for Her was launched the year before in 2004.  The similarity could be either coincidence, or homage. I refuse to think of it as olfactory plagiarism as I am so fond of Lovely and its Diffusion Line.

However, a great deal of credit must go to the Narciso Rodriguez Dream Team Christine Nagel and Francis Kurkdjian, both legends in their own right.  Interestingly, I always thought SJP Lovely was also similar to Lanvin Rumeur, which was created by, yes Francis Kurkdjian. And so the happy circle goes on.

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The similarities can be found in the fact that both perfumes start as a  rich floral that becomes Patchouli like and Woody almost as soon as the floral notes have registered.  Rather than being woody in a masculine sense, the prickly Patchouli and the clean florals produce an agreeable vintage note of nail polish, at least to me.  They both remind me of a 1950s dressing table with a layer of fine face powder and open bottles of nail colour and  several glass cut perfume bottles.  Both are impossibly feminine and elegant and I love them.

I am describing them together in one breath because try as I might, I cannot tell them apart. The notes listed for both are very different.  NR For Her purports to contain Bergamot, Neroli and no Patchouli at all.  Lovely is supposed to contain Lavender, Martini and Salt, yet both end results are the same.

The similarities are not necessarily a criticism.  As a diversion from the heaving mass of fruity florals and cheap candy floss patchoulis that the Noughties have drowned us in, these quality scents are worth their weight in gold.

I would go as far as to say that NR For Her was a game changer which spawned SJP Lovely, Estee Lauder Modern Muse, and even Avon bargain scent Rare Diamonds as mentioned earlier in my blog..

We needed NR For Her, and it came.

Agent Provocateur Petale Noir: A Grown Up Floral

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Some floral scents can be insipid on me, so I am always looking for one with a bit of oomph.  Today I found it.  Agent Provocateur Petale Noir is a deliciously pretty floral with a Grown up feel to it.  It’s the fragrance a woman would wear if she were to don a pretty sundress with lacy black underwear underneath.

Petale Noir opens with Roses, Lily of the Valley, Hyacinth and pretty, squeaky clean Magnolia.  However, within minutes the Patchouli, Amber and Oakmoss have stepped into the background making this a wonderful combination that is both floral and prickly with moss and woods at the same time. The base notes are divine: Benzoin, Vetiver, Sandalwood and a dark hint of Leather.

There is a confusing aspect to this in which I can clearly smell brand new Band Aid fabric plasters, but to be honest I’ve always liked the smell of them , so this was no drawback for me.

If You like Lanvin Rumeur, you may like to try Petale Noir.  They are both Magnolia / Patchouli combos that give you a feminine scent with delicious patchouli depths. Longevity is very good, and the price is excellent too: less than 25GBP for 50ml of EDP.  I’m adding to my ever growing can’t-make-my-mind-up Wish List.

Sarah Jessica Parker The Lovely Collection:Twilight

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 I am a big fan of Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely. It’s reasonably priced, beautifully packaged and smells like a cross between Lanvin Rumeur by the legendary Francis Kurkdjian, and Narciso Rodriguez For Her. Not bad for less than £20 for 100ml.

 However, her other fragrances are a little hit and miss.  Covet is Chocolate and Lavender (why?), Covet Pure Bloom has a cheap smelling base, and I can’t speak for SJP NYC  or NYC Pure Crush as I haven’t smelled them.

The Lovely Collection contains two very good budget scents: Dawn (violets and Angelica) and Endless (a Floral Musk). However, Twilight is not one of them.

When spraying Twilight, I was Initially pleased to get Amber straight away: A sheer wash of Amber, but Amber nevertheless.  So far so good.  However, within the hour, it had not only gone overboard with the Vanilla but had been positively drowned by it.  It was cheap Vanilla too, and its teeth clenching sweetness reminded me of Kylie Minogue fragrances with their sugary overkill. Oddly enough, Vanilla isn’t even listed as a note, but that’s all I could get from this. I was so excited to see Galbanum as a top note, but nope. Nada. Not a whiff of it.

This was so disappointingly bad that I washed it off before going to bed. Cheap and shrill and overly sweet, it was like a disappointing evening at the end of a great day.

My advice is to capitalise on Lovely’s loveliness, enjoy Dawn and Endless as quality budget buys, and pretty much skip the rest.

SJP Twilight: So much promise but it sadly didn’t deliver.

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Sarah Jessica Parker Covet Pure Bloom: Not Lovely

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I had high hopes for Covet Pure Bloom, since I rate SJP Lovely very highly indeed. It may be a celeb scent but it’s easily good enough to stand shoulder to shoulder with some recent greats, and it taught me not to rule out celeb-u-scents, some of which are excellent.

 SJP Covet was the follow up to Lovely and the memorable TV and cinema advert involved a Imagezealous SJP breaking into a shop to steal a bottle “Covet, I HAD to have it.”  Sadly I did not feel the same. Most of my recent  “I HAD to have it” moments have been directed towards Tauers and a replacement bottle of Lanvin Arpege. Now that I HAD to have.

 Covet Pure Bloom was intended  as a floral version of Covet, but there are no similarities between Pure Bloom and the rather strange chocolate/lavender combo that is Covet.

 Covet Pure Bloom starts with a rather shrill opening of Jasmine and Tuberose, with a hint of Coconut making it slightly comparable to JLo Deseo (which I much prefer to this one). Once the bright, shrill flowers have died down, you are left with a Glade effect. That is, the air freshener likenesses now emerge full throttle. The basenote was so awful and  high pitched and sour that I couldn’t help but wonder (forgive me, Sex And The City fans) whether this was in fact, one of Avon’s latest factory farmed rent-a-scents.

Considering the fact that SJP made the incredibly lovely Lovely, on a par with Lanvin Rumeur, and wonderfully affordable to boot, I was very surprised at the cheapness of Covet Pure Bloom, and I don’t mean the price.  This smells like it was done on the cheap, in a hurry, from an Avon blueprint.

However, I am so besotted by Lovely that I can forgive Sarah Jessica Parker anything.

Vera Wang Lovestruck Floral Rush: Nothing to See Here, Move Along…

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Vera Wang Lovestruck Floral Rush is Vera Wang Lovestruck with the volume turned up and a squoosh more synthetic musk. It doesn’t last very long. I have been using a 1.2 ml sample today and it ran out at lunchtime.

I smelt the original Vera Wang Lovestruck at a beauty counter recently and had almost no reaction to it. The impact was mild. It’s another light floral. There’s lots of them around right now. I went about my business as if nothing had happened. The day I wore Cinnabar and Lanvin Rumeur, to name but two, I couldn’t get my nose from my wrist. When I tried Lovestruck Floral Rush, I guess I was left waiting for it to live up to its name. There’s nothing new here. This is pulp fiction for the modern perfume consumer.

It sounds very glamorous with its top note of Champagne Darling, and it’s Passion Flower and Marigold. The base claims to be Cashmere Woods, Musk and White Amber. However, whilst I did catch some synthetic and rather cheap smelling Musk, I would still describe this as a light  modern floral whose only USP is it’s fabric sprig on the lid.

Vera Wang is globally famous for her exquisite bridal gowns and I can see that this simple and inoffensive  scent (I’m trying not to say bland) would be a good bridal fragrance since it would neither offend or dominate. But sometimes I WANT to offend and dominate, dammit!

Lovestruck Floral Rush– wear and conform. Zzzz.

The Last Word in Celeb Scents: Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely

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 I could not write about Celebrity Fragrance without giving Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely  the attention it deserves. Which is a lot. It’s so good that she could be a perfumer in her own right, fame aside. She was heavily involved in the process from the first meeting with the Lancaster Group, to the final product, more so than any other celebrity behind a fragrance.

 What she has produced is comfortably good enough to stand shoulder to shoulder with the greats. This is a modern classic.

Having recently reviewed Lanvin Rumeur, I can notice similarities. It’s far from being a copy though, as Lovely is not as loud as Rumeur, and if it is ever compared to anything, it’s usually Narciso Rodriguez For Her. I haven’t smelled the latter so I can’t comment. To me though, it’s similar to and as good as Rumeur.

It’s initially a citrus floral, then very quickly a Rose Musk. It is sharp  and spicy without being harsh, and soft without being generic.

Prior to being asked to create a fragrance, SJP used to create her own unique scent from three different sources and mix them herself on her skin. One was an Egyptian oil, the other scent she mixed was a drugstore Musk (BonneBell), and the third was one of my favourites reviewed earlier in this blog: Comme Des Garcons Avignon.

Lovely has a touch of fresh spice, but not in a cumin sort of way, more in a sharp Patchouli sort of way. There is Lavender too, and Orchid, but the floral notes stop there. This is so much more than a Floral, and I love how such a spicy scent has tamed Patchouli into a wearable everyday scent will all traces of harshness gone.

You could wear this in a lift and nobody would pass out. She’s kept it classy and chic. It’s affordable too , but boy it doesn’t smell cheap!

It’s a great combination: tart and spicy yet smooth and floral. Although she worked alongside two established noses, SJP was credited as Creative Director, a rare move in this world of “Sniff’n’Sign”s.

Sadly I did not love her second fragrance Covet, nor Covet Pure Bloom. The Lovely Diffusion Range is another  way of owning affordable good quality fragrance.  I have reviewed Endless, and recently found Twilight to be a soft musk, akin to a watered down version of Obsession for Men. Dawn was gorgeously light and pretty: see my reviews on this blog.

Lovely is as lovely does. A perfect ten. This is money well spent.

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Lanvin Rumeur: Perfect. Unable to Remove Nose from Wrist.

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Not only have I happened upon a fragrance I love, but also a Nose I love, by the name of Francis Kurkdjian. Francis, who is my new poster boy for fabulous fragrance, is responsible for Aqua di Parma Iris Nobile, Emmanual Ungaro Apparition, J del Pozo in White, two Guerlains, two Diors, pretty much ALL of Jean Paul Gaultier, two Van Cleef and Arpels, two Demeters, two for Juliette Has A Gun, and he also has his own Perfume House called Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

Francis (and I can call him that because I love him now), created Lanvin Rumeur in 2006.  Being a fan of Lanvin Arpège, I thought I’d give it a go and I got hold of a beautiful miniature bottle.

From the first application (my mini bottle has no spray), the top notes are Magnolia, Lily of the Valley and something else…almost a bit Aldehyde. In any case, it’s sharp before the drydown.  These flowers are not wishy washy florals. The musk and patchouli kick in during the drydown and what you have left after about an hour is an extremely feminine floral musk. Think Magnolias and Musk with a hint of raspy Patchouli – just enough to stop it being too flowershop.

It’s as feminine as high heels, red lipstick and a string of pearls. It’s ladylike and classic. There’s not a whiff of fruit or vanilla to make it mainstream, and hooray for that. If anything there is a whisper of nail polish about it, but that may be just my interpretation. It’s a floral with character. A rose with bite. And I think it’s just gone into my top ten Hall of Fame.

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If Francis Kurkdjian and Jean Claude Ellena had a fight, I wouldn’t know whose name to scream.