Tag Archives: flankers

Elie Saab Le Parfum Resort Collection 2017 (The Pink One).

elie saab resort

Today, in my local House of Fraser fragrance department (they really should name it after me by now), my eye was attracted to a bottle of coral pink juice.  Thinking it was some sort of playful fruity floral for “The Youth”, I almost didn’t stop, but then I saw it was a bottle of Elie Saab Le Parfum Resort Collection.  Well, I had to stop and drench myself in it, didn’t I?

The intersteing thing about flankers is that some flankers do not resemble the original in the slightest ( Dior Poison -vs-Dior Poison Girl, anyone?) and some smell like the original, but with a different top note. This one falls into the latter category. ES_RESORT COLLECTION 2017_LR (1)

The opening notes are full of tropical fruit and flowers.  It’s playful and summery and rather lovely.  There’s mandarin, frangipani and fruity pink pomegranate.  It would please  the youngsters as well as the picky fortysomethings (who, me?).  However, the top phase lasts about an hour,  and then it’s Elie Saab Le Parfum again.  That is to say,  the fruit disappears and it’s all about the white flowers and the patchouli.  Now, if you like Elie Saab Le Parfum, this won’t be a problem for you, but if you don’t, it might be.

I rather like it, but I wouldn’t see a need a to own both, due to the similarities.  I’ll leave you to decide about that one. The juice is REALLY coral pink, though.- very cute!

How about you?

What’s your take on flankers? Do you like it to resemble the original or be completely different? Or do you just follow your nose?  Do let me know. I always love to hear from you.

Stockists

Elie Saab Le Parfum Resort Collection 2017 is available from House of Fraser or Amazon UK to name but a few.

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Chanel No 5 L’Eau (2016)

lilyrose-iamges

The funny thing about Chanel no 5 is that I seem to prefer the flankers. Whereas I spend a lot of time bemoaning too many flankers, or flankers gone wrong (I’m looking at you Black Opium), when it comes to Chanel No 5, I can’t get enough of those perfectly executed beauties. I loved Eau Première and now I love Chanel no 5 L’Eau .  (Disclaimer- I haven’t tried  the other flanker Chanel No 5 Eixir Sensuel so cannot comment)

My sample of Chanel No 5 L’Eau arrived in the post two days ago and I have been wearing it ever since. The original Chanel No 5 is far from my favourite perfume. It’s arguably the most famous, however, which is how many women end up having a bottle gifted to them, whether they like it or not. That’s not to exclude the many women ( or men) who made an informed choice to wear it. It’s high quality and a classic, but to me it’s always been as if I’m not in on the joke.

chanel-no-5-leau-bottleL’Eau is a different story. Where Chanel no 5 is the tweed suit, Chanel no 5 L’Eau is the lingerie you wear underneath. The best and prettiest ingredients from Chanel No 5 have been taken and used lightly here, leaving the heavy stuff behind. It’s as delicate as a silk slip, yet don’t be fooled by the metaphor of lightness. In it’s way L’Eau is as powerful as No 5, but without the stale face powder note I often get with the original. It’s the flowers I notice the most in L’Eau, not the amber, patchouli, civet or oakmoss of the original.

With L’Eau, the jasmine and roses are prominent to me, as are the aldehydes, but this is far more floral than No 5 and less sober. I’m pleased that the alleged vanilla is a no show. The orris has a buttery, rooty note and the citruses keep it light and cologne-y. The soapy powdery note that is the trademark of No 5 is still there, but not as cloying. This is fluffy like a talcum puff, with a hint of white musk in the base.

Chanel No 5 L’Eau is a Chanel No 5 I can get on board with, roll about in, and marinate in. It’s no weakling: it’s fragility is its strength. This is a delicate beauty with muscles. 

Stockists

You can buy Chanel No 5 L’Eau from Boots, Chanel and The Fragrance Shop.

YSL Mon Paris: It’s Not Mine After All

mon paris

I tried YSL Mon Paris in Boots today, and was eager to get my mitts on it, being a fan of the original iconic YSL Paris with its violets and roses. I was all hopeful and friendly towards the pretty bottle. I figured it must be covetable since it was chained to the perfume counter (like me).

But oh dear. It’s happened again. A flanker has been added on to a classic and come out smelling like a mass market overly sweet rent-a-scent. Harsh words? Maybe, but it’s not the first time this has happened. Fans of YSL Paris, that perennial Sophia Grojsman classic, may well be disappointed by Mon Paris. I certainly was. Do not buy blind.

YSL Mon Paris opens with pink flowers: sweet and sugary. You may find Note du Jour jasmine sambac in there, and some peony too. I usually like peony, but this is messy and overly sweet. Then comes lots of sticky fruit: strawberries, raspberries, pear. The basenotes are allegedly patchouli (two types if you please), ambroxan ( which is musk mallow- a plant based musk sub) and white musk. I would say the patchouli is faintly discernible, but crowded out by pink candy, rather than the mossy punch I’m looking for. (The blurb mentions a classic chypre base, but I don’t know where that went. It’s certainly not here)

This smells very much like Miss Dior ( the modern one, not the Originale) Dior Poison Girl and Black Opium without the coffee. It’s a sweet, candy floss, candy shop fruity floral that has little of any originality to offer. It’s as far from YSL Paris as can be.

Now I should add at this point that all my reviews are just my personal taste, nobody’s forcing me to buy it, and I guess they don’t make it like this unless they feel there’s a demand. There IS a demand, and they didn’t have the likes of me in mind, so I will go back to my quiet collection of retro mossy stuff and no more will be said on it.

Yves Saint Laurent will never lose my love and loyalty  because they made Paris, Rive Gauche, Y, Yvresse and Opium. But I’ll sit this one out, thanks.

Stockists

YSL Mon Paris is widely available. Try Boots or Debenhams.

 

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Classique Intense: Not For Wallflowers

classiqueintense

Jean Paul Gaultier has been a favourite of mine since his Eurotrash days (do you remember that great post pub show he hosted on TV with Antoine de Caunes? Fabulous.)

JPG was the darling of the Nineties, getting men into kilts and Breton shirts and Madonna into her iconic pointy bras – and sometimes no bra at all if the iconic topless dress is anything to go by.  Those Gallic eyes have lost none of their twinkle and I declare myself a fan.

www.popsugar.com
www.popsugar.com

However, JPG loses a few points (but none of the love) for the sheer vast number of flankers around the fabulous Classique.  I have reviewed Jean Paul Gaultier Classique elsewhere in this blog and I liked its soapy/acetone-y/feminine vibe, but it looks like someone, somewhere thought “here’s an idea!  Let’s make so many flankers that even the die hard fans could never possibly list them all!” and so it was.

However, redemption is in sight for today I am wearing Jean Paul Gaultier Classique Intense and it’s marvellous.

Opening with bright white flowers and a hint of  vanilla, Classique Intense makes its presence felt straight away.  The choice of flowers is interesting:  there is no tuberose, but lots of Tiare flower.  This means you get headiness, with less full fat cream but plenty of coconut and soap.  I happen to love this so I don’t mind, but coconut dodgers (great mental image! Would make a good Wii game) may wish to take a back seat.

The middle phase goes a bit woody on me and lies flat for a little while, but then the base notes emerge and in comes patchouli, a few more white flowers coming back as the woodiness fades, and a delicate hint of vanilla that makes this confusingly, borderline frangipani in places, what with the coconutty foodie thing going on.  No matter, it’s marvellous and with just a touch of juiciness in the restrained pomegranate, you have a great, and intense, woody white floral.

Ignore the millions of flankers- I have neither the time nor the inclination to even know where to begin, but the original Jean Paul Gaultier Classique is worth seeking out if you haven’t done already.

Stockists  You can buy Classique Intense online ( or in store) from the Fragrance Shop in the UK, or online from Next or online and in store from Boots (who also do click and collect if you don’t want to pay postage).  I couldn’t find it on any USA sites so I am guessing the launch over there will be coming soon.

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Givenchy Very Irresistible L’Eau En Rose: A Fair and Fleeting Rose

 

www.givenchy.com

Givenchy.com

I like a pretty Rose scent at any time of the year and I quite like Givenchy Very Irresistible L’Eau en Rose.  However, I would like to say one thing to Givenchy: You have not only made twenty nine Very Irresistible flankers but why are no less than EIGHT of them Rose flankers with slightly different names?

This is a serious turn off and if Givenchy  was trying to date me, this alone would stop me from calling them back after the first date.

I always find too many flankers can start to look both self congratulatory and complacent.  One or two carefully made flankers can be good (one example is Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte– a divine flanker that deserved to be made), but make too many and the original becomes devalued in a stack ‘em high sort of way.

givenchy

However, having got that moan out of the way, I will say that Givenchy Very Irresistible L’Eau en Rose (what a mouthful!) is a delightful and fresh, clean smelling Rose that sadly goes a little bit vinyl on my skin after half an hour. It is described by Givenchy as a “frosted rose”, and that’s a pretty idea, but I’m not sure quite what that translates to.  It makes me visualise frosted fruit with a faint sugary bloom.

There are only three notes listed on Fragrantica and they are: Blackberry, Rose and Musk.  What I like about this is that the Blackberry, whist adding juice and a bit of weight to the airy Rose petal, is restrained enough to prevent this from being a fruity floral mélange.

L’Eau en Rose is pretty, feminine and lasts about, oh let me see now, nearly two hours.  I do actually like it: there is a realistic feel to the initial blast of fresh rose petals, but sadly it cannot be maintained.  If it could, I would be all ears ( and nostrils!). Longevity could do with a bit of a push as well. Conclusion? So nearly there and so nearly wonderful. And for Goodness sake, Givenchy, calm down on the flanker overkill!

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Elie Saab L’Eau Couture: Better Than It Says On The Tin

nd.22537

  Hooray and Huzzah, for my Fragrance Shop Discovery Club Box has arrived and it’s full of treats.  Some I like, some I don’t, but half the fun is trying them on and being nosey (quite literally). Today I am reviewing Elie Saab L’Eau Couture. This is one of those occasions where the notes of a perfume don’t match the end result.  If you read the notes of Elie Saab L’Eau Couture: Almonds, Orange Blossom and Vanilla, you might imagine a foodie/floral. However, this is much better than the notes would suggest.

You may recall my earlier review of Elie Saab EDP, worn with aplomb by my lovely friend Jo on a night out. Elie Saab L’Eau Couture is simply the same scent with the heaviness taken out, yet it retains the lasting power. nd.12258 Elie Saab EDP has Patchouli and Cedar, whereas Elie Saab L’Eau Couture does not: yet it still has that woody base, except, this being a summer release, that wood is more of a leafy copse.

At first spray there are indeed Almonds, although not exclusively. Rather than going all Marzipan on me, they are so concentrated that they smell almost medicinal. Fine by me. The Vanilla is there, but thankfully, it’s more of a sweetened roundness rather than a fully fledged cup cake. I can smell Honey too, but it is, in the end, the Orange Blossom that dominates the foodie aspects, whilst still smelling like the sister of the Original Elie Saab EDP.

If you like Elie Saab’s original EDP for evening wear, then this is your answer for daytime.  It’s not like they’ve made it smell totally different and flogged it as a flanker (like so many we could mention), it actually smells like a relative of its originator scent. It still has that slightly prickly base which I like, whilst bringing a hint of summer to the proceedings.  Very clever.  But then guess who made it?  Francis Kurkdjian. No wonder.

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