Tag Archives: best floral perfumes

Deep into Flowers: My favourite DSH floral perfumes.

Photo of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz  from The Perfume Magazine

I was recently lucky enough to receive a little bundle of samples from the genius perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. I liked every single fragrance.  However, some of them took hold of my heart and wouldn’t let go.   Despite the Non-Spring weather here in  chilly Wales I’m going through a big floral phase at the moment.

There were so many beautiful floral notes in these fragrances that  it felt like a little olfactory tour of an exclusive florist.

DSH Perfumes Fleurs du Soleil

Fleurs du Soleil takes tuberose to the tropics and introduces it to new company. This is the kind of tuberose I am always seeking. I last found it in By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad, and how I swooned!.  It’s borderline vegetal, but at the same time, it feels like plunging your nose deep within the  heady petals of this unique flower that always makes its presence felt.  Around the tuberose is sweet honeysuckle, and a touch of citrussy fruit to stop everything going too flowery. It’s beautifully balanced and  I keep getting little wafts as I move. Wonderful!

photo from bhg.com

DSH Perfumes April

April smells exactly like playing in the garden  as a child. The most prevalent note to me, is sweet pea. I remember the scent so well from my childhood. The olfactory memory is extraordinary and I remember garden scents from over forty years ago. Don’t ask me what I had for breakfast earlier today though.

April has just about every note you would expect from a Spring scent . It evokes green grass, spring flowers and tiny bunches of violets (which have no scent in real life, sadly). Also in here is sweet clover, which I used to actually eat when I was about five.  If you pluck a juicy petal out of the flower, at the base you will find nectar and it tastes as good as it sounds.  I also used to eat fuchsias and daisies,  although this was not encouraged.  I suppose I was rather odd, looking back.

What I like about April is that so many flowers are here, but somehow it smells clean and fresh, rather than sweet and overpowering, like some florals can smell. This is everything you can smell in a spring garden, buds, grass, moss and all.

DSH Perfumes Bluedaisy

I think of this as a daisy and blue sky all in one, such is its lightness and airiness. This comes from the grapefruit, which opens the fragrance, and the delicate flowers that follow the citrus notes. This would fit into the fruity floral category ( it has grapefruit, yuzu, passion fruit, oranges), but I still think of this as primarily a floral. The fruits here seem to frame the flowers and make them  sing louder, almost like  a conductor waving a baton.

I noticed the passion fruit, but then I thought- isn’t that perfect with sweet pea? I noticed the almondy, waxy petals of frangipani and the clean, almost herbal background of fresh, very green grass. This is a happy,  Zippety Doo Dah feel good scent that really makes you appreciate how beautiful nature is.

Stockists

All my samples were kindly supplied by Dawn herself, for which, warmest thanks. There were no conditions or obligations attached. The good news is that Dawn ships all over the world (with a few exceptions) so UK fans can order and enjoy these nature friendly scents.  Here’s the website link.

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DSH French Lily: Happiness is a perfect flower

A lily from my very own garden.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz  shows her versatility, talent  and love of nature through her wide range of beautiful fragrances.

You may have read some of my previous reviews of Dawn’s fragrances: Chinchilla, Vanilla ChantillyFoxyDeco Diamonds, Dark Moon, Musc al Madina, Hansa Yellow, Souvenir de Malmaison, Pandora, Albino and Giverny in Bloom. I guess you could call me a fan.

Just the other day Dawn sent me a collection of her fragrances that I hadn’t tried yet. You can imagine my excitement. There were so many that I made notes as I sniffed.  It was very hard to pick a favourite and a blog post containing reviews of all of them would be too long, so here is the DSH fragrance that jumped out and shot me with cupid’s arrow. Please make way for DSH French Lily. (Don’t worry, the other reviews will be along soon!)

DSH French Lily has that wonderful soapy/green accord that lily often has in perfume. However, sometimes lily can teeter over the edge into vegetable soup powder territory (Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee had this effect), but you’ll be pleased to know there’s none of that here. The lily here is light and floral and draws me in like a bee to a flower.  It’s almost clinically clean, but then something rather interesting happens. You know when you smell a flower that’s growing outside and there’s a kind of earthy background to it? Well, that’s what happens here. There’s the beautiful purity of the white lily scent, and then a hint of the earth and the bulb from whence it came.

I could list the notes here, but the above description is my experience and I’m not sure that listing the notes would make any difference to that. I did notice beeswax, aldehydes, lily of the valley, but most of all, that white lily that I can smell on my skin and see so clearly in my mind.

I cannot stop smelling my skin when I wear this. It really is a feel-good fragrance that makes me remember that in a world of technology and pressure, there is nothing as beautiful as a single natural flower blooming away above the ground and the dirt.  Nature will win through even on a dark day.

Thank you Dawn for the beautiful samples. This is my honest opinion and is not a sponsored post.

Stockists

All of Dawn’s beautiful fragrances are available from this website and yes, she does ship ot the UK.

 

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L’Occitane Fleurs de Cerisier: Cherry Blossom and more

fleurs de cerisier bottle

 

Trusty L’Occitane never lets me down and this cherry blossom fragrance is no exception.  My bottle was part of a wonderful gift set contaning  four 7.5ml mini fragrance splash bottles and matching shower gel. The shower lingered long after my shower and the fragrance was spot on for a hot summer’s day when you want to feel cool and feminine and not cross and sweaty (well, I tried).

uk.loccitane.com
uk.loccitane.com

I always think Cherry Blossom is not too far away from peony note-wise. Both are pink, inoffensive and delightfully crowd pleasing without being too sweet. I still maintain that peony is the prettiest of all the floral notes, but cherry blossom comes a close second.

L’Occitane Fleurs de Cerisier is an unpretentious cherry blossom fragrance that does what it says it will do.  It has a faint hint of sweet cherries in the background all the way through, but the cherry blossom petals in the foreground are powdery, sweet, slightly tart even, but always uplifting with a Springtime feel good vibe.

There are also hints of dark and borderline bitter blackcurrant and unless I’m going mad,  a hint of rose?. The star of the show though, is the cherry blossom, and no matter who else comes on stage, they just make up the chorus.  There’s a slightly woody base but it’s still very much a cherry blossom sort of woodiness.

Loccitane box
My lovely box of treats!

Thinking about other cherry blossom scents, I found this less robust than Shay and Blue London English Cherry Blossom, which lasts around nine hours on me.  However, my mini of Fleurs de Cerisier is only an eau de toilette so that may be a factor.

This is ideal for people who love light florals and inoffensive day time scents.  It’s shower fresh and makes me want to wear flowery tea dresses and run through a meadow.  Feel good factor is off the scale.

 Stockists

You can buy Fleurs de Cerisier from the L’Occitane website and from Amazon UK, listed as Cherry Blossom. You can also find it online at Sephora. Sample is my own, as are my opinions.

L'occitane
L’occitane

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Vero Profumo Rubj Voile D’Extrait

rubj

There’s a bit of a back story here. A few years ago, dear Lisa Jones, my friend, mentor and bad girl enabler let me try some Vero Profumo Rubj EDP that she had. My dear friends, I’m sorry to say that I did not care for it. I haven’t tried it since and my only lingering memory of it was cumin with muscles.

sample of rubjSo, in the random and serendipitous way that such things happen, I was recently offered a batch of “Naughty and Animalic” samples from dear friend of the blog Lânáis-Bambi, for which many thanks my friend. The scent bundle was one of the sample collections that you can buy from Bloom Perfumery in London, so I knew it would be good stuff.

I went straight for Rubj, thinking I knew what my reaction would be, but I was wrong.

Vero Profumo Rubj Voile D’extrait is a beautiful deep floral that I was convinced was as full of violets as Guerlain Insolence.  But it’s not.  In fact, the flowers, once they settle, are a classy bouquet of tuberose, jasmine and neroli. They don’t come in straight away though, there’s mandarina and bergamot giving this a much lighter entrance than the one I was expecting.

The base notes anchor the flowers with oak moss and musk, givingtuber this a ladylike and classic feel that I wasn’t expecting. Oh, and the cumin? Well, it’s not there, but  the cedar gives this a herby, woody nuance that takes a back seat and lets the flowers take centre stage. Its presence gives this a touch of supportive sobriety as the flowers get loud.

I loved this so much that I have taken a lesson from it; don’t write off a different formulation of a scent you didn’t take to. I could drench myself in this stuff and It wouldn’t be too much. It’s glorious and feminine and makes me feel like I am too. I’m so glad that serendipity led me back to it.

Stockists

You can buy Vero Profumo Rubj Voile D’Extrait from Bloom Perfumery. Check out the Bloom sample service too.

Acknowledgments

Thank you to Lânáis-Bambi for the beautiful set of samples.

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Prada Candy Florale: A Clever Surprise

nd.24487   Remember that shampoo from the 80s that was called Once?  It was two tone and  you had to shake it before use and presto!  It was both shampoo and conditioner. Why did I think of Once when I was trying out Prada Candy Florale?  Mainly because Prada Candy Florale surprised me and completely changed half way through wearing it. nd.12426

I have reviewed Prada Candy  elsewhere in this blog (I won’t do a link to my own blog as it gets very weird),  and despite its name making me think it was going to smell like a sweet shop, it was  actually very good and not too sweet at all. Prada Candy was simply Musk, Benzoin and Caramel.

Prada Candy Florale has all of these but with added Peony and wait for it: Limoncello- that bitter, palate cleansing lemon liquer that you only drink in tiny shots. Prada Candy Florale doesn’t smell like a close relation to Prada Candy,

limoncello.com
limoncello.com

but the Florale bit is as good as its word.  Florale uses the prettiest and girliest of flowers: the Peony.  It does the job and it’s a safe bet if you’re not going for an edgy floral. Here’s what happens when you wear it:  it opens as a very pretty, almost green floral with dominant Peony and very little trace of Benzoin or Caramel or anything else really.

Then, and here’s the clever bit, it changes into a delightful lemon eau de cologne style scent that hangs around for about four hours.  The transitional bit is interesting: a sort of citrussy floral bouquet with a hint of  benzoin, but when it settles it smells so much like a lemon eau de cologne that I had to check which tester  I had used, thinking I must have sprayed one over the top of it.  

Prada Candy Florale impressed me a great deal.  Sometimes new launches are all so samey that I think I will always be buying old school scents from the bottom shelf for evermore.  But then something like this comes along and I applaud its audacity in not playing it safe.  I don’t like it enough to shove anything off my existing over crowded wish list, but thank you Prada for giving us something a bit new and a bit different.

PS My sample comes from the latest quarterly  Discovery Club Box from The Fragrance Shop. I love them- make it monthly Fragrance Shop!

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Chanel Chance Eau Tendre: A Thousand Ballerinas

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I occasionally stop by the Chanel counter on my wanderings, although it’s usually to sniff Chanel No 19 and top up my Cristalle levels.  I am not enamoured of No 5, and usually ignore the others (I know! Shame on me).  However, I was sent a sample of Chanel Chance Eau Tendre by those nice people at The Fragrance Shop and I have to say that it is prettier than I imagined.

Opening with Grapefruit, Quince and Hyacinth, it’s pure and Spring like, almost ethereal.  The Quince is like the lightest of apple/pear scents, and the hyacinth, although noticeable, is done with a delicate hand without going all Zoflora on me.  Little Wonder when you find that the legendary Jacques Polge is responsible.

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photo wiki

There’s no heavy vanilla or red fruit or spice, or in fact anything heavy enough to pin it down.  It’s like a Will’O the Wisp in its delicacy.  It makes me think of ballerinas in white tulle and pink satin ballet shoes and tinkly melodies and everything that is lovely and nice and pretty and girly.

There are not many perfumes that I would regard as only for men or only for women, but Eau Tendre really does seem to be only for women.  Pale, pretty, dancing women that are elusive like nymphs. It’s so pure that it has a comforting feel to it, like freshly washed crisp cotton sheets, or a soft white blanket.

There is allegedly Amber and Cedar in the base, but all I get is a fluffy sort of Musk, light as clouds. This would be an ideal “first perfume” for a teenager.  It’s not remotely provocative. Longevity is in keeping with its floaty image.  Now you smell it, now you don’t.  Pouf! it’s gone.  Like Tinkerbell in a floaty nightie.

Jo Loves A Shot Of Muguet and Cedar

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 This is the last of the Jo Loves trio of new releases.  As with the previous two, I only have a sealed blotter i.e a blotting strip in its own cellophane casing.  I therefore cannot tell you about longevity or how this is on skin, but it’s worth reviewing anyway, since Jo Loves is a small brand and  a new launch is a big deal. It’s not as if they will be releasing weekly flankers like so many other fragrance houses today.

A Shot of Muguet and Cedar is a simple affair, but its simplicity is its strength.  It is a characteristic of Jo Loves scents that ingredients are never overcrowded.  It is also worth knowing that Jo Malone’s first job was in a  florist shop, and it shows.  It always interests me when florists create scent.  I feel they are perfectly placed to do so.  Luggage and pen manufacturers, not so much.

lotv2

A Shot  of Muguet and Cedar is a light, almost retro, scent that took me back to the Avon catalogues of the 70s once again.  This is no bad thing.  It’s refreshing to have Lily of The Valley celebrated again and I never get tired of any new formulation containing it.  However, if you, like me,  are mad about Muguets, then in my opinion, nothing beats Andy Tauer’s Carillon Pour Un Ange,  which is in another league, and for want of a better word “heartier” than the light whispery Jo Loves version of Lily of the Valley.

It was a clever touch to match it with Cedar.  It brings it down a peg or two like the straight man in a comedy act. This Lily of The Valley is delightfully light and green, but it would float away without just a faint rasp of serious Cedar.

Out of all three of the samples I have been kindly sent, I vote No 42 The Flowershop as my favourite, although I wouldn’t turn any of them down. Jolly Good Show all round, and it brings a little of  the perfect English Country Garden to a rather damp Autumn.

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