Category Archives: Citrus fragrance

4160 Tuesdays Sex Goddess

sex goddess

4160 Tuesdays Sex Goddess is one of the samples included in my Perfume Society Scent With Love Discovery Box, but I already had a sample from my recent purchase of a full set of Crimes of Passions samples.

With The Discovery Box comes a postcard of smelling notes, with conversation prompts which are ideal if you are part of a perfume club (and I’m starting one soon).

One of the questions stood out for me. “If this fragrance was a movie star, who would it be?” My immediate answer is Ava Gardner, the woman Frank Sinatra went loopy for.  She was stunning, sexy and classically glamorous, which seems like a good place to start for my review of 4160Tuesdays Sex Goddess.

www.doctormacro.com
“You’re late”

Sarah McCartney has unbuttoned my uptightness about fruity florals and this is no exception. There’s peach, blackcurrant ( but no cat pee!), along with strawberries, peppery geraniums, amber, bergamot and a last word of vanilla and musk.

So far so good on paper, but what does it smell like in glorious technicolour reality?

There’s a definite whiff of the vanilla and bergamot combo from Sexiest Scent on the Planet Ever (IMHO) which provides a golden background (I can’t help seeing it as golden and fuzzy), but the fruit makes this playful and gives it a vintage feel, in line with say, Madame Rochas and her peaches. Somehow, all together, and in the nicest possible way, this smells as if it was made decades ago. Maybe its the oakmoss. Maybe its the peaches. Maybe I should buy a bottle.

It’s blended with just the right balance of everything and if, like me, the tidal wave of modern mediocre fruity florals has put you off, I can assure you that this could not be more different. It stands in a class of its own. Like beautiful Ava.

Stockists

You can buy Sex Goddess from the 4160 Tuesdays website, with prices starting at a very reasonable £15 for a purse spray. After that, you may want a bigger one and you can buy those as well. You can also get a sample by buying the Perfume Society Scent With Love Discovery Box from The Perfume Society website.

Photo of Ava Garner by www.doctormacro.com

Follow

4160 Tuesdays: Goddess of Love and Perfume

goddess

Designed for Aphrodite, goddess of love, to seduce shepherd boys on the grassy banks of Roseberry Topping.

-Sarah McCartney

Yesterday I was the excited recipient of a box of Crimes of Passion samples from 4160 Tuesdays. This always feel like an occasion as the packaging is consistently hand done and beautiful. Each phial was wrapped in jewel coloured tissue before being wrapped in recycled hand made paper and finished with a leather bow ( The cats won’t give it back). After all that build up, my anticipation was huge.

4160 jan2016

What were the actual scents like? Well a trumpet fanfare wouldn’t have been out of place. They blew me away good and proper. I don’t get these thunderbolts very often and having now written 620 blog posts, I’d be exhausted if I did. But this was like being struck by cupid. I will write about the others in good time, but today I will attempt to do justice to Goddess of Love and Perfume.

grapefruitOpening with citruses that smell freshly squeezed, there is a bright salty tang in the top notes, with a promising warmth. There’s enough fruit here for a market stall ( Yuzu, grapefruit, raspberry, strawberries, plum, peaches), but they are blended so seamlessly it makes a new accord that is akin to a tart raspberry flavour grapefruit. If it was a drink I’d order an ice filled jug of it.

The fruit segues subtly and gradually into a warm fruity chypre and peach sorbetthe oakmoss and Myrhh (aka opoponax) give this a wonderfully retro nod in the direction of the old school chypres that have long gone. The peaches make their presence felt, but never in a soapy, tinned fruit sort of manner. Its more boozy brandied peaches that have been infused with dried fruit over Christmas. The classic chypre base of patchouli and oakmoss gives me the fix I want.

For some reason, the final stages of this long lasting beauty struck me as having a bunch of violets in it. There are none actually in this, but somehow, I found them, or they found me, along with some long lasting vintage musk. Leaving a slightly powdery finish, as a good chypre does, Goddess of Love and Perfume left me an infatuated suitor in her wake.

So, yes, I’ve been shot by cupid and I’m helpless to resist.

Stockists

You can buy Goddess of Love and Perfume from the website at 4160 Tuesdays. You can find other stockists here. I bought my samples from the site. I am reviewing the parfum strength.

Aphrodite (Venus) bares herself before Paris, with Hera and Athena standing to her left in The Judgment of Paris by Enrique Simonet, c. 1904.
“Ta-dah!”

Painting: Aphrodite (Venus) bares herself before Paris, with Hera and Athena standing to her left
in The Judgment of Paris by Enrique Simonet, c. 1904. From www.myastrologybook.com

Follow

The Perfume Society Les Infusions de Prada Discovery Box

PRADA PINK

Being a fan and a full bottle owner of Prada Infusion D’Iris, I was delighted to see that iris has been joined by some new friends in a beautiful capsule collection. It’s hard to believe that Prada Infusion D’Iris has been around since 2007.  I came to it only last year and found it quite ground breaking.

NowSmellThis
Photo of Daniela Andrier from NowSmellThis

I have had a complicated relationship with Iris: sometimes it turns me right off, and sometimes it attracts me like a bee to nectar. It often depends who it’s hanging out with.  Prada Infusion D’Iris pleased me no end since it seemed to fuse my love of hesperides with a gentler, watercolour version of iris.

pradarow

All of the Infusions de Prada range were created by Daniela Andrier, who has this to say:

“At first they appear to be very simple, as if you were “tattooing” water with an ingredient-but in reality each is a very complex formula…the base composition allows the beauty of a flower, wood or fruit to be revealed in a bright sensitive way”

pradaROW2

Imagine my delight at finding a Discovery Box with all of the following inside:

Les Infusions de Prada Iris Cedre

Imagine Infusion D’Iris with a drier, more sober iris within. The galbanum keeps this springlike and the very faintest wisp of incense adds a unisex edge. The iris used here is Iris Pallida which is matured for four years after picking. It would feel rude not to appreciate it after all that time. Luckily it’s dreamy and gorgeous, so no forced politeness required.

Les Infusions de Prada Fleur D’Oranger

Playful and light as air, the orange flower green notes are present, with the orange being more dainty than sharp. There is a base note of serenglide which adds a ghost of floaty white musk.

Les Infusions de Prada Oeillet

Oeillet is carnation, and this opening is zingy like lime. There is bold styrax, but it’s used with a light hand. There is definitely patchouli, but its done with faint watercolours rather than bold acrylics. The spices within are on the herbal spectrum rather than the foodie spectrum and in fact I found the wispiest wisp of liquorice.

Les Infusions de Prada Amande

I’m not usually a fan of gourmands, but I’m always going to be a fan of this almond infusion. There is vanilla, but it is sugar free. No cupcakes or candy floss here. This is creamy and classy, like expensive cashmere. The mandarin and lime that is pretty much a characteristic of the collection, keeps this bright, rather than sweet.

Les Infusions de Prada Vetiver

This could easily play a little trick on your nose. In a blind test, you would not pick this out as Vetiver. However, after about half an hour, coaxed by touches of ginger and citrus, the dried grasses finally emerge. This would make a great unisex scent as it has a slightly masculine finish, but starts like an expensive herbal cologne. It reminds me of very expensive hotel bathrooms. NB Here on my blog, there is of course, no gender barriers to whatever you want to wear. Or do.

infusion postcard 2

Les Infusions de Prada Iris

The original beautiful, ethereal scent that started the wheel turning. I would be hard pushed to think of a more likeable scent. This is green, light, airy and floral and never overpowers.

Stockists

The Infusions de Prada Discovery Box is available exclusively from The Perfume Society.  The boxes costs £36 (£30 to subscribers) and contain 6 x 8ml bottles and postcards with notes and information about each one.  The box would make a great gift and would be a safe bet for recipients who like light, airy perfumes.

If you want to the full bottles, try John Lewis, Escentual or Selfridges

Thank you to the Perfume Society who kindly provided me with this beautiful box.  Opinions are my own.

Follow

Library of Fragrance Orange Blossom and Mango

mangoandorangeblossom

Every fragrance wardrobe needs a good orange blossom.  It’s a fruitier less creamy version of tuberose. It has that hint of faint milky oranges in the background and it smells like petals, all at the same time.

Orange Blossom is widely used in so many fragrances that the landscape of the fragrant firmament would smell very different without it. Library of Fragrance Orange Blossom is one of the best Orange Blossom soliflores I have tried. It’s not the highest priced orange blossom, nor does it come in fancy packaging, but for a sweet, floral, milky hit with a hint of subtle oranges in the background, this is hard to beat. It’s fabulous on its own, but when I layered Library of Fragrance Mango over the top, I had something really addictive going on. Mango smells like a tropical version of Orange Refreshers, which didn’t hurt Eau de Cartier Essence d’Orange, of which it reminded me. See my review earlier in this blog)

I didn’t used to like fruity florals and was a curmudgeon about them, but then the Caramel Sugar Tsunami took over and became such a ubiquitous note in mainstream perfume that I started to miss fruity florals and appreciated them anew.

Fragrantica
Fragrantica

The combination of Orange Blossom and Mango makes for a zingy, fresh and feminine scent that goes together so well that you could Brangelina its name: MangorangeBlossom? Orango? As for me, I couldn’t stop sniffing.

Both Orange Blossom and Mango are fabulous alone and true to the descriptions on their labels, but together, they really take off. My recommendation? Get both.

Stockists

All Library of Fragrance scents are available online from their website. Prices are either £9.99 or £15 for a full bottle, or £10 for a purse spray.

Boots also carries a range instore and online. In Boots you can buy two for £25.

Follow

Angelo Orazio Pregoni for Odriu Milan: Olfactory Dada

angelo and dog

I was recently approached via email by Odriu Milano and asked if I would like some samples from their range. I agreed and provided my address, not knowing what to expect. Slightly embarrassingly I was out when the plain brown parcel arrived from “The Pleasure Factory” and had to knock my neighbours door to mumble a thank you for taking my parcel.

Opening the envelopes was like unravelling a puzzle. The website is even more bizarre, but I like it. I like it all, even if I had to do quite a bit of research to get the full picture.

The brand is Odriu Milano, the perfumer is Angelo Orazio Pregoni ( and check out his profile here because I can’t do it justice) and the ranges I’ve been sent are named Wet Dream and Vendetta. It took me a minute to figure out the Vendetta one. I had a sample called DET, one called TA, and one called VEN, until the penny dropped.

vendettasamples

I’ve always loved an eccentric so I got stuck in to see if this intriguing brand was all mouth and no trousers, as we say in Wales. In other words: are they any good or is it all talk? Now before you read on, it’s important to remember that Angelo Pregoni “ is also the founder of NoUseART, a movement which promotes performance based on smell“- Fragrantica.  Just bear it in mind.  Estee Lauder, this ain’t.

Peety

The first sample I tried was from the Wet Dream range and called Peety.  Initially it reminded me very much of Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain,that mainstay of any classic niche collection. However Peety went a bit incensey on me then, more like Comme Des Garcons Avignon ( all of this good by the way, I’m a fan). The dry down is long, spicy and smoky and will have your nose glued to your wrist. There’s moss, tobacco and patchouli and some might find a bit of animal in there too, but on me it was more balsamic smoke. It’s excellent and would be equally good on male or female skin.

peetyfullimage

Satyricon:

This is tricky to describe because to me it smells like stale unwashed man. The thing is, I think it’s meant to. Remember that Angelo Pregoni is a performance artist that uses smell in his performance and one Fragrantica reviewer has memorably described this as “a wardrobe malfunction done on purpose”. What I got was cat pee, which then disappeared and turned into Crayola crayons, which then morphed into unwashed skin and dirty hair.  It’s remarkably clever but not something I’d want a full bottle of.

satyricon

VEN

Ven opens like Serge Lutens Louve- it’s all cherries and chocolate, but it quickly changes into something more than that. There was also a whiff of peppermint and, bizarrely, the smell of a brand new room- you know that new paint and new carpet sterile smell? It reminded me a little of LUSH Smell of Weather Turning, but this has bigger muscles and ends up smelling as if you are cuddling a hirsute man who is brusque, yet protective, and hasn’t washed since yesterday.  It’s very good.

ven

DET

I wasn’t sure what to make of Det when I first tried it so here’s what I wrote down: rum, booze, basil, woodiness, flowers, nutty?

I then looked at the notes listed on trusty Fragrantica. Who would have thought that a scent that incorporates white flowers, peanuts, red berries, basil and benzoin would ever smell so amazing? But it does. The peanuts add a warm savoury woody feel, the white flowers only overtake towards the finishing line and the whole comes together in an intriguingly changeable feast of a fragrance.

det

TA

Ta is an odd name for a perfume. Its a lazy colloquial way of saying thank you, but once I jiggled the samples as mentioned above, it became clear that this is the last piece of Vendetta. Ta is very green: almost too green: the cedar is strong and just holds back from being bitter. The moss tones it down a bit and the strawberry and cucumber come through at the very end, like the hint of melted sweets in a puddle.  This wasn’t my favourite but I would recommend you try it if you ever get the chance.

ta

Stockists

You can buy Odriu perfume from the Odriu Milan website, and they also do a sample service.

GIVEAWAY

Here’s the Good news: I am doing several give-aways throughout Advent as a thank you to my lovely readers for helping to get me to my third year blogaversary in January 2016. The give-away will consist of:

Odriu Milano Perfumes by Angelo Orazio Pregoni

Peety

Satyricon

Ven

Det

Ta

Simply tell me what you smell of at the time of writing.  That makes sense, right? For instance, I smell of six perfumes, minty Polos and coffee at the moment. The deadline for entries is Monday 7th December at midnight GMT. You can give me your answer via Facebook, email ( iscentyouaday@gmail.com), Twitter, or as a comment on the blog below.

Sorry, but the giveaway is for UK readers only due to postal restrictions. Apologies to my lovely overseas chums.

Follow

The Body Shop Italian Summer Fig EDT

 

figbox

 

I popped into my local Body Shop today and was delighted to see a classy display of fragrances in beautiful faceted glass bottles.  There were the regulars: Atlas Mountain Rose and Fijian Water Lotus among them, and a new fragrance I hadn’t seen before that had a summery looking green juice.  That fragrance was Italian Summer Fig and I can report that it is truly scrumptious.

 

Telegraph.co.uk
Telegraph.co.uk

Fig works very well in summer,  after all, its good enough for our continental cousins who know a thing or two about heat.  It reminds me of perfumed sultanas:  the fruit is deep and rich, yet aromatic and tangy too. With obvious comparisons of L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier drifting in and out of my scent memory, I helped myself to several squirts and ten hours later I can still smell traces of it- not bad for an eau de toilette.

The notes, according to our trusty friends at Fragrantica, are:

 Top notes: Fig, green notes and vine

Middle notes: Rose, saffron and floral notes

Base notes: Oak and amber

In fact, on me, although it opens and closes with fig, there are definite traces of flowers, especially rose, and I got a whiff of woodiness at the end, which I always thinks  complements fig so well

Italian Summer Fig makes a refreshing choice for summer and I applaud the Body Shop for going down this route rather than the more traditional mainstream routes so often found in summer. My only criticism is that I like to see purse spray versions of new scents available so you can make your mind up before buying a full sized bottle.  Marks and Spencer does this and I love treating myself to an affordable handbag spray. You can get purse sprays containing some of the other fragrances in the Body Shop range for £5 for 10ml, so maybe this plan is in the pipeline.

 Stockists

 Italian Summer Fig  is available from the Body Shop in store and online and retails at £18 for 50ml. Ancillary products are also available so you can layer the fragrance  nicely.

 

Chanel Chance Eau Vive EDP

chance   Chanel Chance Eau Vive is the latest Chance flanker from Chanel. Launched just this week, I was eager to try it and entered my local Perfume Shop to ask for a squirt. A squirt was fine , but when I asked for a sample, the assistant looked at me like I owed her money. What’s going on with the sample thing these days? I’m even a card carrying Perfume Shop Club Points Scheme member, but it was an unhesitating, unapologetic No. Nevertheless, I had several sprays on skin and coat sleeve and it was pleasant enough. Actually I was impressed by longevity since I can still smell traces of this from this morning, albeit a masculine vetiver-y trace.

chance-eau-vive-s

Chanel Chance Eau Vive opens with quiet fanfare awash with robust grapefruit notes that make this a perfect fresh pick me up for summer. It reminded me very much of Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh, with very little difference between the two. I should imagine that if you love one you love the other. In the middle, some light and airy florals emerge that were fairly non-descript and mingled in summery fashion with citrussy notes. The drydown was a bit cucumber/melon on me, but at the end of the day there was, as I mentioned, a trace of vetiver.

chance x4

Created by the great Olivier Polge, this will be greeted warmly by fans of light, summery feminine scents, and it certainly holds it own. Personally I prefer my fragrances to have bit more oomph, but this does the job it was meant to and would make a great wedding guest scent. Never overpowering, always pretty and unobtrusive: this is a bridesmaid scent that would let the bride shine.

 Stockists Chanel Chance Eau Vive is widely available.  You could try www.Sephora.fr, Boots, or Harrods. It’s also availblae on Amazon UK . It doesn’t appear to be available in the states yet but I imagine it’ll be along in a minute.

Follow

Philosophy Amazing Grace

grace

 

Philosophy Amazing Grace is much beloved by the perfume wearer that doesn’t want to announce their presence too loudly.  It is the classy quiet girl that stands still opposite Alexis Carrington in a cat fight: both are majestic in their own way, but incompatible.

Philosophy Amazing Grace opens subtly, stays subtle and has lasting subtle notes, and there is nothing wrong with that at all. Amazing Grace contains : Grapefruit, mandarin and bergamot, freesias, jasmine and rose, and a lasting note of gentle white musk.

www.hotelluxurycollection.com
www.hotelluxurycollection.com

In fact I barely noticed that it contained citrus as this has such a muted feel from the start.  The freesias and roses peek out, but the soft musk is in there from the beginning, covering everything in soft white fluff, like a newly dried angora sweater, or a pile of white fluffy towels.

Philosophy Amazing Grace is the kind of perfume you want to wear when you want to smell shower fresh and laundry clean and almost, dare, I say it, unobtrusive.  It is the smell of clean living and a “butter wouldn’t melt” face.  It’s the perfume you would wear to a job interview or when you were trying to get away with something: “It wasn’t me, I am pure as the driven snow.   I even smell like I am “ (deliver this line with wide eyes).

So if you’re looking for perfume that smells “clean”, this is it.  This is one of the best fresh laundry/clean from the shower fragrances ones I’ve come across, although I was reminded several times whilst smelling it, of Library of Fragrance Clean Skin. This is no bad thing.  Amazing Grace is the scent for your duvet day when you don’t want to waft vintage Opium all over everyone to show them who’s Boss.

Stockists:

Philosophy Amazing Grace is available from many stockists: among which are Boots, John Lewis, Amazon UK and  www.Sephora.com . Prices are around £32 for 60ml.  My sample comes from The Perfume Society Beautiful Blossoms Discovery Box

Follow

The Perfume Society Beautiful Blossoms Discovery Box

BlossomBoxbox2-350x350

 

Excuse me a minute whilst I gush like a fan.  The Perfume Society Discovery Boxes are my new guilty pleasure.  In fact, I don’t even feel guilty.  They are my new obsession and The Perfume Society haven’t asked me to say so.  I am besotted.

shadersYears ago, when I was a slip of a girl (many, many years ago) my late grandmother gave me a wonderful Christmas gift.  She had decorated a little basket with some fabric remnants, making a frilled lining, and filled it with beauty bits and bobbins.  In it were bath cubes, setting lotion, a sachet of Shaders and Toners (remember them?) bath pearls and various other mini delights.  It was such a cornucopia that I eked it out for a long time and have never forgotten what a treat it was to receive.  I’ve had nothing like it since, but the old feelings came rushing back when I received my first Perfume Society Discovery Box a few months back.  I’m now on my fourth and the thrill has not dissipated.

There is always a book of sniffing strips, postcards with notes about each perfume and discussion prompts in case you want to get a perfume club going ( and I do), and then last but not least, there is a selection of seven or eight perfume samples, often hard to get, and usually an “extra”, which in the past has consisted of Liz Earle skincare, Crabtree and Evelyn hand cream,  and L’Occitane Roses et Reines hand cream.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

This month I have the Beautiful Blossoms Discovery Box and it contains: a quad of Yardley floral EDTs,  Miller Harris Couer de Jardin, Fragonard Jasmine, Jimmy Choo Blossom, La Perla Peony Blossom, Ruth Mastenbroek Amorosa, Agonist Isis, Chloe Love Story , Philosophy Amazing Grace and Elemis British Botanical Shower Cream.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

I can sit there sniffing away of an evening with the TV on, blissfully trying stuff out for my blog and feeling very much in my element.  It also means my sample selection has expanded in a way that makes my eyes light up like a miser in a goldmine.

So this isn’t a review of a perfume, but if you like perfume, these Discovery Boxes will save you a traipse round a  High Street smelling of so many perfumes you can’t remember the name of the one you liked.  Or they might fill a very pleasant evening of wrist sniffing whilst watching old reruns of House MD on Netflix with a  cup of tea.  Like what I do. Bliss.

Stockists

The Perfume Society Discovery Boxes are available on the Perfume Society website for £15, although subscribers get first dibs and a discount.