Penhaligon’s Equinox Bloom

equinox bottle

 

I came across this sample of Penhaligon’s Equinox Bloom in my Perfume Society Exquisite Essences Discovery Box and, with it being a Penhaligon’s, I couldn’t resist. Equinox Bloom was created by Olivier Cresp, the legendary nose whose perfume heritage cannot be matched: he was raised among fields of petals and blooms in Grasse, no less.

Equinox Bloom was inspired by a combination of flowers and a London breakfast of honey and marmalade. M. Cresp has never shied from using gourmand notes: he co-created  iconic game changer Angel for Thierry Mugler.

Equinox Bloom opens with a blast of orange blossom and neroli. Neroli is also made of orange blossom but is distilled differently and is therefore often listed as a separate note.  In Equinox Bloom, the two together give the orangey floral note double the impact.

Fragrantica
Fragrantica

There is a sweetness that comes out almost immediately. I would have said honey, but it is in fact brown sugar.  Now I’m usually sniffy ( pun intended) about gourmands, but this makes a refreshing change. What I like about this is that there is no vanilla in it.  The brown sugar provides a warm toasty sweetness without making this generic: the over-use of vanilla turns me off these days.  There’s some nice waxy frangipani in there too, which always reminds me of almonds, and a dose of very heady jasmine sambac, which has been enjoying a great deal of popularity of late.  However its strength never overpowers the orange flower.

together give the orangey floral note double the impact. There is a sweetness that comes out almost immediately. I would have said honey, but it is in fact brown sugar. Now I’m usually sniffy ( pun intended) about gourmands, but this makes a refreshing change.  What I like about this is that there is no vanilla in it.

equinox graphicThe base is rounded off with a little Ambroxan ( a sort of Ambergris stand in with similar scent qualities), the brown sugar again (which never really goes away) and resin-y benzoin.

Equinox Blooms starts off as a light as a fairy’s wing, before getting headier and headier with creamy white flowers and then meting into a warm golden scent that has a hint of oranges and frangipani.

The sweetness adds to the flowers, rather than takes over, and the overall effect is longlasting and addictive. If I’m honest, there is tiny bit of celery in the ending, which never hurt  Caron Yatagan…

The light airiness of the white petals in Equinox Bloom reminded me of the opening gambit in Annick Goutal Matin D’Orage, so if you like that you’ll probably like this too.

Stockists

You can buy Penhaligon’s Equinox Bloom from Penhaligon’s instore and online. You can buy The Perfume Society Exquisite Essences Discovery Box from their website here.

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5 thoughts on “Penhaligon’s Equinox Bloom”

    1. Ooh thank you Portia my dear friend! I have an FB of Maton D’Orage. My dear chum Lisa gave it to me and it was an excellent fit. I’d never tried it before but I loved it straight away. Hope you like Equinox Bloom too! your fangirl, Sam xx

    1. Hi Ginza, Hope you’re well. The Amborxan is not too strong. The orange flower definitely dominates this one. Worth a shot! best wishes and have a good day x

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