Anya’s Garden: Bringing an Ancient Cologne Back to Life

www.anyasgarden.com
www.anyasgarden.com

 Anya McCoy has been making perfume since 1991, using only natural ingredients.  She is not only a perfumer, but also teaches her art as well as having her own line of scent.  She is also President of the Natural Perfumer’s Guild and a fellow of the American Society of Perfumers.  Based in sunny Miami, which feels like South Wales today I should imagine (we’re having a heatwave and we can’t cope!) Anya kindly sent me some samples and told me her story.

 

Anya McCoy
Anya McCoy

Anya was seminal in recently helping to bring a Philadelphia cologne recipe back to life.  This cologne recipe ( pictured top)  is 155 years old, so you can imagine the excitement of finally sniffing it after all these years, like unearthing a long lost photograph or tasting an ancient cognac.

Following the recipe exactly as it was written, and using only natural ingredients (and thus adding yet more authenticity), Anya brought the Randolph Parry 1859 cologne back to life and in doing so has produced an elegant heritage cologne that interestingly, does not smell out of place in the Twenty First century.

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It was a knotty puzzle that had to be unravelled.  Anya worked with historical fragrance expert Andrine Olsen, who spotted and corrected a small error which then unravelled the formula.  From the recipe we can see Lemon, Bergamot, Rosemary, Cloves, Neroli, Musk and of course, alcohol.

The Randolph Parry 1859 cologne is full of herbs and citrus and smells fantastically refreshing and clean.  It seems especially apt that I am testing this on what is predicted to be the hottest day of the year in Wales.  There is something almost sherbet-y about his- it has an effervescence that won me over.  Imagine if someone poured a gin and tonic onto your skin and the sharp lemony bubbles popped agreeably on your skin- that’s what this smells like.  This could easily blend in with the best of the traditional colognes available today and if it was British it would be at home in Penhaligons for sure.

You can find out more on Anya’s blog here.

Anya also kindly sent me three other samples which I will tell you about.  The samples are small but they are pure perfume and can be purchased from her website.

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Ylang Ylang:

It was so interesting to finally smell a tincture of Ylang.  I knew it was a flower with a hint of banana, but until I smelled this I didn’t realise that it has a slightly dirty tang to it, like light but unprocessed patchouli oil.  Almost, but not quite indolic, Ylang Ylang in this form has more in common with heavy duty Jasmine than bananas! In fact, once it settles, it is a little like a patchouli/white flower mash up without the creaminess. Fabulous.

Enticing:

Described as ” An exploration of the most seductive aspects of the narcotic tuberose flower, with skin and musky notes bringing the perfume warm, soft nuances.” Enticing certainly packs a punch.  This musky floral runs deep, and has a richness that almost borders on de trop, but doesn’t quite overstep the mark.  If you like your tuberose rich and “narcotic” rather than perfume-counter sanitized, you are going to love Enticing.  Not for the fainthearted, but unforgettable for those who dare.

Light

Sharper and more cologne-y in style than Enticing, Light contains grapefruit, citrus, neroli, frankincense and juniper berry, making this simultaneously light and spicy. It’s a perfect summer cologne that make me want to eat it, but I don’t know why.  NB Please don’t lick your arm when wearing this. The grapefruit is dominant, but not enough to drown out anything else.  The juniper berry again reminds me of a refreshing gin and tonic ( I’m going to have to pour myself one at some point today- the universe is telling me so).

Stockists: To buy or try any of Anya’s Garden scents, check out the website here. There is a  good sample service if you don’t want to blind buy.

Many thanks to Anya for thinking of me and sending me these lovely samples.

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4 thoughts on “Anya’s Garden: Bringing an Ancient Cologne Back to Life”

  1. I’m so glad you found the cologne recreation refreshing – that’s what it is! The classic aromatics used in it are truly mean to wake one up, give them a bit of a zing to their step. Enticing is the opposite – a night time, sultry scent meant to lull someone into a laid back sensuality. Thank you so much for your reviews!

    1. Hi Anya,

      It’s such a thrill when the actual perfumer comes along to leave a comment on my humble blog. Thank you so much for the samples. It was great fun getting to know the brand and I am so grateful you thought of me. xx

  2. Fascinating. Very exciting, to get the chance to do a bit of time-traveling via scent. It’s a bonus that it was rather lovely as well.

    Try to stay cool, although I never have figured out how to do it in humid conditions, except by finding an air-conditioned space and staying there. Lots of ice in your G & T?

    1. Hi Laurels, sorry I’m late replying. I had somehow missed your comment. Yes humid is worse than just dry heat. I find that a lot of people go to McDonalds in the heat even when they’re not hungry. Lovely and Cool! And yes, ice in my G and T is an excellent plan. xx

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