Papillon Perfumery Salome is the latest release from Papillon, with this being the fourth release from Nose Liz Moores. Liz has the awe inspiring accolade of having had all three of her first ever perfumes nominated for a FiFi. That’s an incredible achievement.
So expectations are high for any future releases and Liz must be feeling “Difficult Second Album Syndrome”, but she has nothing to fear.
Salome is both beautiful and disturbing, like its namesake. This is a daring toe in the water. Salome was never going to be mainstream. If we want mainstream, we know where we can get it. This is the special “If you like that, I’ve got something round the back you might appreciate” sort of perfume. It has a dark side.
Here are the notes: Jasmine, Carnation, Turkish rose, Africa stone, Patchouli, Bitter orange, Oakmoss, Styrax, Bergamot, Orange blossom.
Here’s what I got from it: This is like opening a bottle of perfume that hasn’t been opened since the 1940s. It smells vintage already. It has that dark smoky richness that makes you sigh with pleasure. There is jasmine and orange blossom in among some dried leathery tobacco- Think Caron Tabac Blond. Then the whiff of sex comes out like an animalic siren call. A whiff of styrax brings to mind that jolt that Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles gives you, but the blending is so seamless that you can’t tell where one phase starts and another ends. Salome is from another decade. It makes me think of a time when le Smoking was de rigeur, when women wore aged fur stoles and when perfumes lasted days on a dirty neck where soap never reached. Anais Nin would have worn it.
Salome is rich, glorious, vintage, sexy and dark. It reminded me of vintage Ivoire de Balmain, or Bourdon’s Courtesan: with a hint of crotch, and a lot of crumpled sheets on a double bed. It’s the walk of shame at dawn wearing yesterday’s knickers and carrying your shoes in your hand.
I loved it.
Liz, you’ve done it again.
Stockists: Salome is available from the Papillon website, which also does a good sample service (honestly they’re all amazing). Papillon is also stocked at Les Senteurs, Check out the Papillon website for further details of stockists in Europe.