Papillon Perfumery Salome: Beauty Has a Dark Side


Papillon Perfumery Salome is the latest release from Papillon, with this being the fourth release from Nose Liz Moores.  Liz has the awe inspiring accolade of having had all three of her first ever perfumes nominated for a FiFi.  That’s an incredible achievement.

So expectations are high for any future releases and Liz must be feeling “Difficult Second Album Syndrome”, but she has nothing to fear.

Salome by Gaston Bussiere

Salome is both beautiful and disturbing, like its namesake.  This is a daring toe in the water.  Salome was never going to be mainstream. If we want mainstream, we know where we can get it.  This is the special “If you like that, I’ve got something round the back you might appreciate” sort of perfume.  It has a dark side.

Here are the notes: Jasmine, Carnation, Turkish rose, Africa stone, Patchouli, Bitter orange, Oakmoss, Styrax, Bergamot, Orange blossom.

Here’s what I got from it:  This is like opening a bottle of perfume that hasn’t been opened since the 1940s.  It smells vintage already.  It has that dark smoky richness that makes you sigh with pleasure. There is jasmine and orange blossom in among some dried leathery tobacco- Think Caron Tabac Blond.  Then the whiff of sex comes out like an animalic siren call.  A whiff of styrax brings to mind that jolt that Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles gives you, but the blending is so seamless that you can’t tell where one phase starts and another ends.  Salome is from another decade.  It makes me think of a time when le Smoking was de rigeur, when women wore aged fur stoles and when perfumes lasted days on a dirty neck where soap never reached. Anais Nin would have worn it.

Salome is rich, glorious, vintage, sexy and dark. It reminded me of vintage Ivoire de Balmain, or Bourdon’s Courtesan: with a hint of crotch, and a lot of crumpled sheets on a double bed.  It’s the walk of shame at dawn wearing yesterday’s knickers and carrying your shoes in your hand.

I loved it.

Liz, you’ve done it again.

Stockists:  Salome is available from the Papillon website, which also does a good sample service (honestly they’re all amazing).  Papillon is also stocked at Les Senteurs, Check out the Papillon website for further details of stockists in Europe.

11 thoughts on “Papillon Perfumery Salome: Beauty Has a Dark Side”

  1. Salome sounds wonderful – i love the way you describe it as ‘rich, glorious, vintage, sexy and dark’. I gotta get me a whiff of this one. Unfortunately i have never had the pleasure of trying the other perfumes you write about in your review, so i have to use my imagination, helped by the images you have conjured up…. 🙂

    1. Hi Patsi,

      Thank you so much for dropping by and taking the time to comment. It’s always lovely to hear from you. I am lucky in that i have a friend (Lisa) who has bottles and samples that would make your eyes pop out. Without her, my blog would not have got off the ground. I would have had to travel far and wide to try the stuff she let me borrow. I love her!

      1. Aww, that’s so sweet! Everyone needs a ‘Lisa’ and a ‘Sam’ 🙂 The world would be a less fragrant place without you guys! x

    1. Hi Esperresence and thanks for dropping by. I’m so glad you like my review. I hope you get to try Salome. It’s fabulous!

  2. I just checked, and it’s not at Luckyscent in the US yet. If it’s there next month, my perfume budget will be going for a sample order.

    I haven’t had the time or focus for much commenting lately, but I always love to read your reviews.

    1. Hi Laurels,

      Don’t worry, there are blogs I can only skim read without commenting on, but I still love ’em! Hope you’re well. It’s really hot here and we’re not used to it. I expect you can handle the high temps though!

      best wishes

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