I really didn’t know what to make of Serge Lutens Vitriol D’œillet when I first sprayed it. I thought it was a slightly bitter Aldehyde with brash, unadulterated sour limes. However, it soon morphed into something altogether different as it dried, but the opening blast was worthy of a Tauer and reminded me of how Andy Tauer uses Aldehydes and Bergamot in a retro way.
Paradoxically, once Vitriol has calmed down, it heats up. Before long, spiky, spicy Carnations take over. Their prickliness is enhanced with a backdrop of strong clove, pepper and chilli. However, there still seems to be some Bergamot in the backdrop, even though it is not listed as a note.
I find Vitriol very unusual. I have to pay it the compliment of saying that although I’m not sure I like it, it has really kept my interest today and I can’t stop sniffing it. It’s almost like a mystery that I want to solve. The Carnation is there, but it’s not a floral scent. The edible spices are there, but it’s not savoury. It has Peppers and Chili but is not a gourmand.
In fact, I’m not sure what category I would put this into, but I really want to get to know it better. I guess I’ll put it in the “Fascinated” category. This one might just creep up on me and make me fall in love with it, but right now, the jury’s out. Oh, and don’t buy it blind.