A Trio of Worth: Sans Adieu

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Worth Sans Adieu was created in 1929 and is elusive these days, leading me to conclude that it has been discontinued, although it is not clearly stated anywhere and I was able to find a bottle on Amazon (in a  rather lovely trio, see previous photo)

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photo by crystal classics

Sans Adieu comes in a retro style basic looking 70s bottle, a far cry from the original Lalique packaging of its 20s debut (see left).

Sans Adieu amazes me with its modernity. In a blind test, I would have sworn this was a more recent 1990s creation since it is in fact a classic, text book calone scent. Yes, we have a synthetic melon scent, so typical of the Issey Miyake/ Aqua di Gio era of the early 90s. But the surprise is that this was made in 1929. Sans Adieu is a modern girl wearing jeans before denim was even invented.

Sadly, calone leaves me cold, and there is not much more to this note wise, that can get me past this enormous hurdle. I can’t help but try and imagine a woman in the 1920s trying on a perfume that for its time, was way out of synch, although the bottle was divine.

As a perfume, it’s a very interesting anecdote to a fan nosing into the fragrance history archives. Sadly, the melon is a deal breaker for me, but if you know anyone who likes calone, point them in the direction of Sans Adieu. It’s not for me, but I find it fascinatingly anachronistic.

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4 thoughts on “A Trio of Worth: Sans Adieu”

  1. I wonder if this is something that Worth have reformulated as they’ve gone along, hence the Calone Nuclear Melon Of Doom? I was reading that the great and glorious Germaine Cellier used things called ‘bases’ when creating fragrances back in the 1940s and 50s. Eventually, the factories that made these arcane combinations of chemicals closed down and the bases weren’t available any more, so the perfumes had to be reconstructed using modern ingredients. While some reproductions are incredibly faithful and effective (Bandit is pretty good), others are more led by the cost of ingredients.

    Equally, some of the original ingredients such as Nitro Musks are now banned (and have been for years) because they are dangerous. Again, perfumes were reformulated. I would very much like to smell pre-1950s Jicky, which is supposed to be gorgeous.

    1. That’s really interesting and kind of explains the mystery behind the ludicrously modern appearing in the 1920s like a Doctor Who plotline.

      *sigh* I wish those factories hadn’t closed down…

  2. Dearest Iscent and LisaWB
    Indeed Cellier did use bases, and they are not the same as absolutes, which many confuse them with today.
    And yes, the factories in Grasse she sourced from are pretty much all gone and with them the ‘recipes’ and the know how.
    Sad.
    Robert Piguet, I believe, commissioned the recreation of the works following a change in hands business wise and developments in gas analysis. Bandit is very good (I’ve smelt vintage), Fracas less so, Futur (inexplicably) less still (though rather splendid in its new version) – not all by Cellier but apparently others were onto the same trick.
    I can only assume that as Lisa points out, even if you know what’s in the original, you can’t get hold of it these days, and = if you can you can’t use it.
    Must be a terribly frustrating affair!
    I hope the other two of the trio fared better than this melancholy melon of a start…
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

  3. Dear Mr Dandy,

    Reading your posts and those of Lisa Wordbird’s is an education! As you know my site is all about my personal response. I am after all a fumbling amateur, but I am being taught so much on the way by kindly commenters. It really puts a new perspective on my discoveries for me.

    I did not realise that bases and absolutes were different, and I LONG to smell Bandit, which has been recommended to me since I am a fan of Cabochard. Bandit was a favourite of one of my heroines, Edith Piaf.

    Your friend
    IScent

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