Une Fleur de Cassie: Editions de Parfums Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle

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 I have tried several Frederic Malle fragrances. Whilst no two are quite the same, I do notice similarities between them.  I often think “Hmm, that smells like a Frederic Malle”, only to find that it was.

 I rather liked Une Fleur de Cassie, but didn’t love L’Eau D’Hiver (which I reviewed back in January), discovered a hearty dislike for my nemesis Iris Poudre,   and was left slightly underwhelmed by Musc Ravageur. I have been told however, that I might just love  Bigarade, and since Jean Claude Ellena is at the helm of that one, they might be right.

Une Fleur de Cassie is a lot of perfumes all at once.  Not a Green, not quite a Floral, not a Citrus, not a Chypre, not an Oriental.  It begins smelling a little of musty blackcurrants and Roses and Chalk. It then beds down into a creamy dust, framed with Dried Rose petals, background Jasmine, and yellow, summery Mimosa. The Sandalwood adds a bit of sandy bite. As it settled in, the mustiness became more dominant, and it began to smell like the back of a dark wardrobe and sadly  went a bit cardboard like on my skin. There is a dusty quality, like a stuffiness or lack of air,  that I also found in Iris Poudre.

After around five hours, just before it died away completely, I was left with a very aged smelling milky Musk, with peppery dried Pot Pourri. I’m glad I didn’t buy a bottle blind. This smells much prettier on my Mum, who happens to be around today.  On her, there is a definite hint of Violet Leaf and the Musk really suits her.

Dominique Ropion is a prolific Nose, having created some true greats. It is fair to say that the landscape of modern perfume would be very different without him. In his repertoire, you will find Thierry Mugler Alien,  Givenchy Amarige, Lancome La Vie est Belle, Sisley Soir de Lune, Givenchy Ysatis,  Calvin Klein Euphoria, Caron Aimez-Moi, Cacharel Amor Amor, My Queen by Alexander McQueen,  several for Burberry, several for Escada, Dior Pure Poison,  and several fragrances for Frederic Malle, including the much lauded Portrait of a Lady, to name but a few.

Ropion is both talented and versatile, with no two Ropion fragrances smelling the same.  He can do big Box Office hits, but gives great niche.  Whilst Une Fleur de Cassie isn’t my cup of Monkey Picked Oolong, I’d like to think I can recognise a good perfume when I smell one, and this is definitely good.  Not on me sadly, but on my Mum it’s terrific.  Mum, I think you should splash out.

6 thoughts on “Une Fleur de Cassie: Editions de Parfums Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle”

  1. Hi lucasai, I think out of the ones listed, I’d have to say L’Eau D’Hiver is the best. it’s especially good when sniffed alongside Apres L’Ondee. It kind of brings out the Violets and the delicate qualities.

  2. Dearest Iscent
    A green-ish dust with a touch of suffocation…. now this does sound interesting.
    As is your point regarding the similarities between the perfumes in the Malle range as opposed to the diversity in Ropion’s work.
    The Dandy can’t but help thinking that this highlights the increasing influence of the creative director over the fragrance world… much as publishers and editors have shaped the literary sphere in the past.
    More to be said on this I feel….
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    1. Dear Mr Dandy

      I agree completely. I love independent parfumers because they are like rogue experts going it alone. So many fragrances are mastered by marketing departments and PR machines. I love it more when a perfumer says “Ah! Let’s try this”, and thus takes a risk.

      Indeed, it is a can of worms.

      Your friend
      IScent

  3. Une Fleur de Cassie smelled nice when I tried it – but not FBW nice (I wouldn’t mind using it from time to time if a bottle falls from the sky 😉 ).

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