I’m a fan of Parfums Grès, I even have the much derided set of Marlene Dietrich fragrances, as well as beautiful Cabotine and Leathery/Spicy Cabochard ( see my earlier review). However, I was so deeply disappointed in a Cabotoine Flanker, Cabotine Rose, that it made me cautious about buying a Grès blind.
On this occasion, I bought a very small (7.5ml) bottle of Grès Cabaret on the grounds that if I didn’t like it, I can still pay the mortgage.
When it first goes on (and I have a bottle with no spray so it’s direct onto my skin) it smells almost medicinal, or more specifically, Dental, like the pink mouthwash they give you to rinse with.
The drydown turns into Turkish Delight or those Rose and Violet Creams you can sometimes still get from a good Chocolatier. There is powerful Rose, but the Violet gives it that Turkish Delight quality.
However, it’s the base notes that I really love about Cabaret. From a high pitched Rose it turns into a Patchouli scent with prominent Sandalwood, still with the Rose, some softening Musk, and a bit of pretty Peony, but now it becomes a woodier, more mysterious scent. It’s almost as if the fragrance encapsulates morning, afternoon and evening all in one.
Although this only seems to be available in the EDP rather than an EDT, I would say it has a weak link in it’s strength and longevity. I’ve had to use nearly half of my little bottle just to get two thirds’ of a day’s wear out of this. When you compare this to say, Lanvin Arpège (see my review dated January 2nd) where a mere glance at the bottle is enough to scent you from Dawn to Midnight, then this is a slight letdown in an otherwise rather lovely and unusual fragrance.
Like the rest of the Parfums Grès range, it’s pleasingly affordable, and hey, even Luca Turin really likes it. He hates stuff I love and I hate stuff he loves, but on this, we can agree. Intriguing, interesting and, like all my favourite fragrances, a scent that keeps you guessing. This is a good complex fragrance that is so much more than a Rose Musk.
Oh and sort your website out Parfums Gres. It’s the 21st Century!