It’s that Pierre Bourdon again. Every time he makes a perfume I end up disliking it intensely. It’s not personal; he just creates smells that I don’t want to smell like.
Shiseido Feminite du Bois is highly regarded and coveted by many as a warm Oriental. Which is quite right and proper and it is indeed how it begins on me. In fact it is a perfectly crafted woody spicy fragrance, full of depth and heat. It has an almost sour note in the heart, which is beautifully earthy, like freshly turned soil, and then it warms up even more to smell like ancient wood in a church pew, infused with a hint of musky incense.
However, and I’m not quite sure how to put this delicately (although I did try a Franglais euphemism-see title): this smells like a gusset. A non clean one. It smells like knickers smell on the walk of shame with party shoes in hand as the sun comes up. There. I’ve said it.
Funnily enough, I had exactly the same response to Worth Courtesan. I thought “Mm that smells very feminine”, and then after about half an hour, “What’s that smell? I have to wash NOW!” Guess who was responsible for that little gem? Yes, Pierre Bourdon. Similarly, Iris Poudre. Within minutes I was washing it off. Pierre’s handiwork again. That rascal!
Now it goes without saying that “Gusset” will never be a note listed on the Mighty Fragrantica, but I at least looked for Civet notes or an Animalic accord. Nothing. Zip. Nada. So either this only happens to me and me alone, OR it happens to lots of other people who can’t quite pin down the exact suspect note in question. OR lots of people get this but like it and shut up about it.
Personally, I don’t want the smell of a musky knicker gusset on my arm, so after using a little bit of this kindly loaned bottle, I will be returning it with enormous thanks that the list of very tempting notes didn’t lead me to buy it blind.
This is a textbook example of a perfume I love that doesn’t love me back. I long for that first magical half hour again, but it’s not returning my calls.